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Champagne: 2020 New Releases (Aug 2020)

The 2002 Cuvée Nicolas François Billecart is outrageously beautiful. The ripeness of the Chardonnay is front and center in a Champagne that delivers the goods, big-time. An infusion of apricot, orange peel, crème brûlée, chamomile, hazelnut and honey give the 2002 its racy, exotic personality. I enjoy it most with bottle age, but the 2002…

Vintage Port – The 2016 Declaration (Jun 2018)

The 1960 Taylor’s Vintage Port has a deep brick colour with tawny rim. The bouquet is simple and innocuous: ripe cherry, blood orange, fig and rose petals, although it does gradually reveal more nuances. The palate is medium-bodied with notes of wild strawberry, orange peel, hazelnut and fig. It is not a complex Vintage Port,…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Ausone has a mature bouquet with brambly red fruit, marmalade, leather and touches of cooked meat. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, a little dry and more savory than expected. I feel there is something a little passé about this Ausone, indicative of the time when wines were being pushed a little…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Good deep ruby. Currant, minerals and nutty oak on the nose. Lush, sweet and pliant on the attack, then more closed in the middle palate, with a chewy, rather serious texture and impressive density for the year. The black fruit flavors are complicated by minerals, dark chocolate and mocha. Finishes with a rather powerful tannic…

Santa Cruz Mountains: The Compelling 2018s & 2019s (May 2022)

The 2019 Pinot Noir Porcupine Hill is a beautifully translucent, nuanced Pinot that shows the heights of finesse that are possible in Anderson Valley. A wine of unreal subtlety and nuance, the Porcupine Hill hits so many high notes. Crushed red berry, mint, spice, tobacco, cedar, rose petal and espresso build over time. As always,…

Santa Cruz Mountains: The Compelling 2018s & 2019s (May 2022)

The 2019 Pinot Noir Porcupine Hill is a beautifully translucent, nuanced Pinot that shows the heights of finesse that are possible in Anderson Valley. A wine of unreal subtlety and nuance, the Porcupine Hill hits so many high notes. Crushed red berry, mint, spice, tobacco, cedar, rose petal and espresso build over time. As always,…