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Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Léoville Las Cases has a youthful, very oaky bouquet, even after 10 years, modern in style but very pure and charming. The palate is rounded and fleshy on the entry with candied black fruit, sweet and more like a 2009 stylistically. Lovely cassis notes mixed with blueberry furnish the finish. Very seductive, although…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a blend of 82% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot and 8% cabernet franc; 74 IPT; 3.56 pH; 75% new oak; 13.7% alcohol) Deep ruby with purple highlights. Sexy, classic, captivating cabernet sauvignon aromas of blackcurrant, graphite and cedar complicated by minerals. Silky-sweet, fine-grained and almost gentle on entry, with well-integrated acidity contributing to an impression of…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2002 Mouton-Rothschild, which was made by the late Patrick Leon, has a well-defined bouquet with pretty blackberry and graphite scents, quite precise and focused. This has matured well in bottle. The palate is medium-bodied with a cohesive entry, youthful, not amazingly complex and perhaps towards the end the limitations of the growing season impinge…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

Good saturated ruby-red. Tight nose hints at currant and smoky oak. Highly concentrated, densely packed and built to age. As young as it is, it also shows a lovely velvety texture rare for this vintage. Finishes with terrific breadth, subtle minerality and noble tannins. I’ve been a fan of this wine since the outset.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Montrose has much more freshness than the 1983 tasted alongside. With blackberry, boysenberry, wilted iris flower, loam and clove, it’s pretty complex and certainly more complex than the Lafon Rochet. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy, grippy tannins, powerful and burly. Firm tannins, this is serious and lacks a little flair and charm…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Montrose has much more freshness than the 1983 tasted alongside. With blackberry, boysenberry, wilted iris flower, loam and clove, it’s pretty complex and certainly more complex than the Lafon Rochet. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy, grippy tannins, powerful and burly. Firm tannins, this is serious and lacks a little flair and charm…