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Vinous Table: Tuscan Dinner @ 67 Pall Mall, London, UK (May 2023)

The 2012 Ornellaia was perhaps a little overawed by the mature Solaia and Sassicaia in the flight. Pretty backward and unresponsive on the nose, I find this a bit simplistic by comparison, with blackberry and bilberry aromas and a touch of VA. The palate is medium-bodied with dense tannins, muscular at the moment, moody and…

Looking Back To Go Forward: Lafite-Rothschild 1868 – 2015 (Jul 2018)

The 1996 Lafite-Rothschild is consistent with the bottle shown at the Hong Kong vertical. It has an intense bouquet with blackberry, cedar and a pencil box of graphite. The adjective I use whilst writing this note is that the aromas are cool. Perhaps given its provenance, this is one of the most backward bottles of…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full, deep ruby, by far the darkest of these vintages. Knockout nose of great precision: cassis, black cherry, lead pencil, licorice, dried herbs and mint. Densely packed and extremely unevolved; a powerfully structured wine with uncanny precision and penetration. Finishes with powerful, firm tannins and exceptional mounting persistence. An infant, but a great Northern Medoc…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1996 Lafite-Rothschild is the strongest wine from the First Growth in that decade. This bottle, served blind and ex-château in Bordeaux, is so precociously backward that I estimate it to be half its age. Blackberry, cedar and graphite are here as usual, though this bottle has even more intensity than the one served at…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2011)

Good deep red. Classic Barolo nose offers medicinal cherry, plum, currant, menthol, dried flowers, wild herbs and tobacco. Then very dry and penetrating, with a pronounced tannins currently suppressing the wine’s dried fruit flavors. This seemed to go into a shell in the glass. An essence of traditional Barolo but how long will this wine…

Conterno Monfortino Magnum Vertical: 1970-2014 (Feb 2021)

The 2006 Barolo Riserva Monfortino, on the other hand, is a powerhouse. I haven’t tasted the 2006 much recently, as I know exactly what is in store: a huge, towering Barolo in need of considerable cellaring. Searing tannins give this dark, intense Barolo its distinctly brooding feel. Deep and massively structured, the 2006 is a…