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The 2009 Red Burgundies (May 2011)

The 2009 Corton Clos du Roi is quite deep and intense. It shows terrific intensity in its fruit, along with plenty of structure to support aging. I especially like the way richness of the fruit carries through to the finish. This virile, imposing Burgundy needs a few years in bottle to settle down. The Corton…

2009 Red Burgundy (Jan 2011)

(100% vendange entier; still in cask and not yet racked; all these grand crus are aging in 50% new oak) Good deep red. Very ripe yet delicate aromas of red fruits, earth and chocolate. Silky-sweet and impressively concentrated, conveying an impression of fullness without weight. Really outrageously perfumed fruit here, with lovely lift. Finishes with…

The 2009 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Apr 2012)

The 2009 Clos de Vougeot is big, rich and quite powerful. There is an attractive quality to the bright fruit, but this is a rare wine from Liger-Belair that appears flattened by the oak. I am not sure this fruit needs all the makeup. From time to time the fruit emerges reluctantly but the wine…

2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Good medium red. Superripe aromas of cherry, spices, leather, earth and resiny oak, along with a saline nuance. Rich, broad and powerful; classically dry but a bit warm with alcohol (14.5%!). Just this side of heavy but there’s also good underlying energy here. I’d forget this very large-scaled but youthfully disjointed Clos Vougeot for at…

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Full, dark red. Some very ripe notes to the aromas of plum, blackberry and violet. Moderately sweet and penetrating, with very good energy and underlying spine to its currant and floral flavors. A bit youthfully imploded but finishes with solid power, serious tannins and enticing lingering perfume. This classy, fine-grained but still-tight wine calls for…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Medium ruby. Perfumed, subtle aromas of dark berries, spices, cedar and lead pencil; unusually sophisticated for a second wine. Supple, dense and suave, with lovely layered texture and restrained sweetness. Very densely packed and serious for Pavillon Rouge, but with no loss of finesse. Finishes with chewy, ripe tannins and excellent length.