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Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Le Clarence de Haut-Brion has really come out of its shell. Bold, juicy and super-expressive, Le Clarence is so polished and sophisticated. Dried herbs, cedar, tobacco, licorice and coffee lift out of the glass. Medium in body and wonderfully persistent, the Clarence is a real beauty.

Value Through Time: Burgundy 1932-2016 (Aug 2021)

The 1996 Richebourg Grand Cru is a wine that I have drunk several times. The intense nose has opened a little since my last encounter, evolving to offer enticing scents of violet and earthenware notes; a hint of brine emerges with time. The palate is as introverted as previous bottles but opens with blackberry, meat…

1997 and 1996 Red Burgundies (Mar 1999)

Good deep red-ruby. Wild but rather opaque on the deeply pitched nose; hints at cassis and leather. Gives an impression of higher acidity than the foregoing wines and comes across as a bit disjointed today. With less fat showing today, the tannins are a bit tough. But this wine is hiding more than it’s showing…

1996 and 1995 Red Burgundies (Mar 1998)

Very good dark red. Higher-pitched spice and earth nose, complicated by exotic smoky-oak tones. Riper and silkier in the mouth, but given shape and firmness by a mineral underpinning. Finishes with substantial tongue-dusting tannins and a hint of caramel oak.

1996 and 1995 Red Burgundies (Mar 1998)

Excellent deep red. Higher-pitched, liqueur-like aromas of raspberry, cassis and licorice; subtle and complex. Lush, voluptuous and stuffed with dark fruit flavor. Finishes with dusty, substantial tannins that build in the glass. This wine fabulous fruit is easy to see today, but it, too, wants to shut down.

Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 1991 La Tâche Grand Cru, from magnum, is drinking beautifully. Vivacious red cherries and crushed strawberries almost reluctantly emerge, perhaps the larger format making sure the aromatics are more backward compared to bottles tasted in the past. Light scents of sea spray and crushed rock. Fine tannins frame the palate; it’s a structured and…