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Cellar Journal – Bordeaux to Start… (Jul 2018)

The 1990 Troplong Mondot has been highly rated in the past, although I have been troubled by recent showings. This is one particular wine why Antonio and myself will have to agree to differ! I have encountered this particular vintage three times over the course of 12 months, twice served blind, and on all three…

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1996 Ducru-Beaucaillou is a vintage that I have not tasted for a number of years. Matured in two-thirds new oak, it has an open and expressive bouquet, a mixture of red and black fruit, estuarine scents, touches of liquorice emerging with time. It is higher-toned than the 1995 with iodine evolving with aeration. The…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Bright medium ruby. Deep, superripe aromas of dark berries, black cherry and bitter chocolate; slightly exotic crystallized fruit aspect. Dense, sweet and wonderfully rich; a lovely combination of palate-caressing chocolatey fruit and firm underlying structure. Finishes with excellent grip and great palate-saturating sweetness. Another outstanding 1996 Medoc wine in the making. Drink 2010 through 2030.

Margaux Focus 1: Château Durfort-Vivens (Aug 2023)

The 2000 Durfort-Vivens has a funky nose, a bit smudged with dusty black plummy fruit, tobacco and mint. The palate is medium-bodied with a touch of espresso on the entry, soft in texture, with dark chocolate on the finish. This bottle is just all over the place, frankly. Tasted at the Durfort-Vivens dinner at Portland…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

(a 60/40 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot) Good ruby-red. Sexy aromas of currant, black cherry, licorice, flowers, toffee, menthol and chocolatey oak. Juicy, pure and fairly tightly wound, with lovely acidity giving a briskness to the flavors. Finishes with good definition and grip, and a slight dry edge.

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Pavillon Rouge has a really lovely, peppermint-tinged bouquet that is very well-defined and full of vigor. The palate is medium-bodied with impressive concentration. It is not a complex wine, and it might feel just a bit forceful on the slightly leathery finish. But it has a sense of swagger about it that I…