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Exploring the Tuscan Coast (Sep 2014)

Another dark, intense wine, the 2011 Ornellaia boasts superb depth, richness and power. Here, too, the 2011 has tightened up quite a bit over the last six months. Today, the searing tannins are quite prominent, giving the 2011 an element of gravitas and muscle that argues for cellaring. How long? I am not sure, but…

Tuscany Part 2: Bolgheri, the Tuscan Coast and More Super-Tuscans (Dec 2014)

Fully saturated ruby. Reticent aromas of deep black fruits and spices complemented by menthol, grilled herbs and vanillin oak.  Dense, sweet and powerful but still quite primary, conveying a distinctly high pitch to its ripe black cherry, violet and coffee flavors.  Finishes saline, tannic and very long, with impressive muscle and noteworthy medicinal reserve. A…

Central Tuscany: Maremma, Montepulciano and Beyond (Mar 2019)

Just bottled, the 2016 Ornellaia is a dense, powerful wine. Naturally, the 2016 is just at the beginning of its life, but I am struck by how polished the tannins are for such a young wine. Ornellaia is at its best starting around age ten, but there is little doubt the 2016 is a hugely…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Lynch-Bages (Jan 2012)

(a blend of 79% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot, 10% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot; 3.54 pH; 6.03 g/l total acidity; 81 IPT; 13.2% alcohol): Fully saturated bright ruby. Currently in a slightly dumb phase and aromatically compressed on the nose, revealing cool blackberry and cassis aromas with extended aeration, complicated by notes of cola,…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Deep ruby-red. Deeply pitched aromas of inky cassis, licorice, mocha and smoky, nutty oak. Fairly large-scaled and layered but dominated by its acid/tannin spine in the early going, displaying firm, coolish flavors of black plum, licorice and graphite. The lingering finish features substantial but ripe tannins. Give this at least a few years of cellaring…

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 2006 Lynch-Bages has an airy bouquet, open but missing the same fruit intensity as other vintages. Light wild hedgerow, bilberry and touches of seaweed emerge but never fully get into fifth gear. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly rigid tannins that frame the dusky black fruit. More austere than vintages from this era, it…