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Archive Away: Mature Burgundies 1919-2019 (Jun 2024)

The 1995 La Tâche Grand Cru is an outstanding wine from a decade when I don’t think the Domaine was firing on all cylinders. This echoes the magnum tasted last year with those ebullient red cherries and crushed strawberry scents on the nose. As you might expect from the bottle format, it’s a little more…

New Releases from Champagne (Dec 2008)

The 1998 Brut Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill opens with intriguing, exotic notes of smoke, cured meats and tar. This is a big, sweeping Sir Winston Churchill endowed with layers of perfumed ripe pears, quince, flowers and spices in a style that balances a generous expression of fruit with acidity and minerality. Everything is in the…

New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2007)

Light gold. Intensely aromatic nose offers a complex bouquet of smoky orchard and pit fruit aromas, along with exotic orange zest and white pepper. Deep and chewy, displaying impressively concentrated but brisk pear and bitter citrus pith flavors and an undercurrent of buttery brioche and lees. Finishes with palate-staining persistence and a subtle anise quality….

Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

The 1998 Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill Vinothèque is a fabulous choice for readers who want to enjoy a fully mature Champagne. Apricot jam, spice, baked apple tart, honey, passion fruit, orange marmalade and butter are all beautifully amplified. Readers will find a heady, exotic Champagne that dazzles both the intellectual and hedonistic senses. I would…

A Janus with Soul: Figeac 1943–2016 (Dec 2021)

The 2006 Figeac is a vintage that I have appreciated for some time, though this might be its best showing. Well-defined and vibrant on the nose, it is quite precise with expressive Cabernet Franc, touches of freshly-rolled tobacco and sage infusing the brambly red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins, displaying a discrete…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Bright ruby-red. Cassis, licorice pastille, graphite and violet on the lively nose. Suave and fine-grained; not a hugely ripe style but elegant and classically dry, with the wine’s mint, licorice and herbal cabernet component dominating today. Finishes quite firm and a tad dry, with building tannins.