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Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a 51/49 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot; 82 IPT; 13.9% alcohol) Deep ruby-red. Musky aromas of blackberry, gunflint and black pepper, plus a whiff of dried herbs. Bright and linear on the palate, with lively acidity framing the flavors of dark fruits, black pepper and minerals. Finishes with smooth tannins and good length. This…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright ruby-red. The nose offers a mix of decadent plum, green pepper and fresh herbs. On the palate, dark cherry and spice flavors are lifted by peppery herbs and flowers and framed by solid acidity. The finish is a tad diffuse and dry. There’s an overripe/underripe quality to this second wine: I wanted a bit…

Focus on California (May 2001)

Saturated red. Aromas of cherry, raspberry, smoked meat, roasted tomato, earth and tobacco leaf; deeper and more complex than the Napanook bottling. A step up in complexity, vibrancy and precision of flavor. Silky and fairly deep, with slightly truffley chocolate and tobacco flavors. Finishes with big but suave tannins and a hint of licorice. This…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Good full red-ruby color. Redcurrant, raspberry, plum, tobacco, spice and mint on the nose. Sweet on entry, then firm and nicely delineated thanks to lively acids. Finishes with firm tannins and sneaky length. More Medoc in style than usual for this chateau; more marked by the cabernet-but this is still about 75% merlot.

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good red-ruby color. Superripe aromas of plum, mocha and graphite. Silky-sweet, deep and broad, with terrific concentration of currant and licorice flavors complicated by leather, herbs and pepper. Finishes with thoroughly ripe, broad tannins and noteworthy length and power. Costanzo says this wine needs another six months in bottle to gain in nuance.

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Medium ruby-red. Cool, moderately ripe aromas of blueberry and mint. Sweet and easygoing, with modest density and structure. Slightly herbal flavors. Could use more depth, but the tannins are reasonably ripe.