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Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2020 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has a terse, mineral, flinty bouquet with touches of powdered chalk coming through with time, later a Crustacea note. You would think someone has wandered in with a silver turine of fruits de mer! The palate is very poised on the entry with a twist of sour lemon, crisp acidity,…

2017 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: A Day’s Work (Jul 2020)

The 2017 La Tâche Grand Cru is another of the more expressive wines in the range. It opens with striking mid-palate pliancy and also possesses a level of inner sweetness the other wines don’t have, and yet there is plenty of the tannic clout that defines the Richebourg as well. Time in the glass allows…

Complex, Not Complicated: 2017 DRC in Bottle (Feb 2020)

The 2017 La Tâche Grand Cru was picked on September 6 and 7 at 34hl/ha and bottled between March 25 and April 24. As Aubert de Villaine had noted earlier, this is a more introverted La Tâche that bided its time in the glass. The fruit is slightly darker than the Romanée-Saint-Vivant, with the addition…

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

(this fruit on the Pouget side was picked late, with great richness, according to Barnier): Pale, bright lemon-yellow. Cool aromas of lemon ice, lime, tarragon, anise and metallic minerality. Surprisingly sweet on entry, then as powerful, structured and tannic as a red wine. Rounder and richer than the comparatively angular, almost painful Chevalier-Montrachet, but impenetrable…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Vaucrains 1er Cru matches Chevillon’s Les Saint-Georges pound for pound in terms of intensity and precision, offering brambly black fruit, crushed rock, tangerine and raspberry preserve scents that blossom with aeration. The medium-bodied palate features very supple tannins and pitch-perfect acidity, although perhaps at the moment the Les Saint-Georges demonstrates…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Vaucrains 1er Cru does not quite deliver the complexity of its peers, perhaps just a touch of reduction at play here. I suspect that this just requires time. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannins, dense and weighty, a “heavy” NSG that lacks grace and mineralité, though I appreciate the…