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Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Pichon-Baron is simply one of the greatest wines produced under Christian Seely's tenure. It has a stunning bouquet with penetrating black fruit, wilted violet and a touch of sea spray, a distinctive marine note verging on shucked oyster shells. The palate is very well balanced with fine grain tannins, layers pf graphite infused…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 Ségla has a well-defined bouquet whose discreet rose petal and iris aromas lift the black cherry and blueberry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and quite lively and spicy, leading into a slightly metallic finish, which I suspect will ebb with time. There is good length here. An elegant and quite…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2002)

Bright red-ruby. Reticent but pure aromas of tangy wild berries, black cherry, flowers, mint, licorice and underbrush. Fat, sweet and broad but fairly backward. Richer than the Ginestra, but very young today, with strong underlying structure. Has the density to carry its firm tannic load. Still, the ’99 version is even more vibrant.

The 2022 Champagne Spring Preview (May 2022)

The 2012 Comtes de Champagne is gorgeous. Warm and resonant in the glass, the 2012 Comtes shows all the allure that makes this vintage so appealing. The combination of bright citrus, mineral and floral notes typical of Comtes, enhanced by the soft contours of the vintage, makes for an inviting, open-knit Champagne that is quite…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Talbot is much more backward on the nose compared to its peers, eventually revealing blackberry, briary and light floral scents, pretty but clearly requiring more bottle age. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, quite firm tannins. Cedar and graphite lend this a slight Pauillac-like personality, linear and correct with modest depth on the…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good dark red. Aromas of black raspberry, tobacco, mocha and smoke. Rich, plush and full in the mouth, but with edgy acidity and a peppery note contributing definition to the raspberry and mineral flavors. Not hugely concentrated but juicy, fine-grained and firmly structured wine with excellent balance. A worthy successor to the very good 2009…