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Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(63% cabernet sauvignon, 32% merlot and 5% petit verdot) Bright, deep ruby. Fruity, grapey aromas of strawberry, blood orange, tobacco and cedar. Then more blood orange and strawberry jam on the smooth palate, complicated by hints of lavender and musk. Finishes with good but not outstanding length. This Talbot is in an uncomplicated, easygoing style,…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

After a first bottle was slightly oxidized, a second bottle of the 2012 Haut-Brion was opened. This has a well-defined bouquet with blackberry, raspberry, cedar and subtle tobacco aromas that unfurl in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannins, the most austere of the First Growths, yet fresh as a daisy with impressive…

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

A big, powerful wine, the 2012 Haut-Brion possesses stunning richness and intensity, with all of the depth that is lacking in so many other wines in this vintage. Not here. The 2012 possesses remarkable depth and tons of raw, animal power that is going to require considerable time in bottle to soften. Readers should be…

Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(65.5% merlot, 32.5% cabernet sauvignon and 2% cabernet franc; 44 h/h): Deep ruby-red. Compelling perfume of dark berries, red cherry, licorice, violet and bitter chocolate. Highly concentrated and penetrating, with superb sappiness to the rich flavors of raspberry, brown spices, cocoa powder and smoky black pepper. This big, rich wine displays outstanding spine and grip…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2012 Haut-Brion is beginning to flex its muscles. The bouquet is perhaps one of the most backward of the five First Growths, the Merlot firmly in the driving seat. Blackcurrant mixes with pitted black olives and cedar, and light sous-bois scents percolate through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins, very good…

Taittinger: Comtes de Champagne 1971— 1998 (Aug 2010)

The 1989 Comtes de Champagne is darker in color than the 1988 and also quite a bit more forward. Candied orange peel, spices and caramel suggest it is on a fairly quick path. Today the 1989 is most impressive for its generous texture and complete, developed personality. This won’t make old bones, but it is…