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The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good dark red. Aromas of black raspberry, tobacco, mocha and smoke. Rich, plush and full in the mouth, but with edgy acidity and a peppery note contributing definition to the raspberry and mineral flavors. Not hugely concentrated but juicy, fine-grained and firmly structured wine with excellent balance. A worthy successor to the very good 2009…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(63% cabernet sauvignon, 32% merlot and 5% petit verdot) Bright, deep ruby. Fruity, grapey aromas of strawberry, blood orange, tobacco and cedar. Then more blood orange and strawberry jam on the smooth palate, complicated by hints of lavender and musk. Finishes with good but not outstanding length. This Talbot is in an uncomplicated, easygoing style,…

Simply…..Dom Pérignon (Jan 2009)

These four vintages of Dom Pérignon provide a fascinating snapshot of how the house has performed in recent years. The 1998 Dom Pérignon comes across as somewhat two–dimensional and lacking the sheer cut of the 2000. There is plenty of ripeness in the fruit, but not quite the definition and verve of the finest vintages….

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2005)

Pale yellow. An enticing blend of red berries, butter and toast on the nose; this settled down to an earthy, smoky character that reminded me of Batard-Montrachet. Full and rich, with flavors of musky yellow plum and ripe pear accented by crisp mineral notes. Really long and vibrant on the building finish, if not as…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2005)

Light gold color. Textbook Bollinger aromas of toast, lees and buttered toast, along with suggestions of fresh mushroom and white truffle. This is really about earthy tones, not fruit. Thick and fat to the point of being oily in texture, with deeply pitched sweet cream and butter tones and a slow-to-unfold singed pineapple flavor. For…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Cos d’Estournel has a fresher nose than the 2000, showing more focus and vigor and delivering black cherries mixed with fig, blood orange and light cigar box aromas. Side by side, this is certainly more youthful. The palate is well balanced with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity, and fine grip and…