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Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Smith Haut-Lafitte has one of the most backward bouquets among its peers and required more coaxing from the glass. It eventually offers well defined blackberry, wild strawberry, sous-bois and tobacco notes, quite serious but very engaging. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins. There is good body and density here, but it loosens…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Full ruby-red. Very ripe yet precise nose offers blueberry, black raspberry, violet, spices and sexy dried herbs; still a bit youthfully medicinal but already showing a lot of personality. Rich, pliant and hugely deep, with near-chocolatey ripeness to the highly concentrated dark berry, tobacco and spice flavors. This wonderfully broad, seamless, layered wine dusts the…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Richebourg Grand Cru is not as immediate as Thibault Liger-Belair’s Richebourg and for a fleeting moment it comes across as a bit disjointed. It only needs a bit of rigorous swirling for it to coalesce into something much more enticing: red plum, crushed strawberry, warm gravel and just a light Cuban cigar scent….

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Domaine des Cambes is bursting at the seams with super-ripe dark cherry, plum, espresso, licorice, menthol and chocolate. This rich, boisterous Blaye is full of energy. There's real depth and energy here, not to mention tons of character. Dried herb, leather, cedar and tobacco linger on the ample, beautifully textured finish.

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Domaine des Cambes has a tightly wound bouquet that needs more time in the glass, opening to offer black cherries, boysenberry and a touch of wild heather, almost Burgundian in style. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, very well-judged acidity, and flavors of black plum mixed with soy, white pepper and clove…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Roc de Cambes has a generous bouquet of black cherries, warm embers, roasted chestnuts and light truffle scents that emerge with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, a fine bead of acidity and gentle grip. I appreciate the harmony of this Roc de Cambes, though it needs some bottle age to…