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2003 Vintage Ports (Jan 2006)

Good saturated ruby. Raw, brooding nose dominated by crushed dark berries. Then dense, sweet, superripe and powerful, if a bit high in alcohol and unrefined. A big boy, with a strong chocolatey flavor and considerable finishing sweetness. This may well merit an outstanding rating with 15 years or so of cellaring. But I would not…

Cellar Favorites: 1996 & 1985 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande (Feb 2016)

What a treat it is to taste these two Pichon Lalandes straight from the chateau’s cellar. The 1996 Pichon Lalande is stratospheric from the very first taste. The deep, layered bouquet alone is deeply transfixing. Smoke, mocha, dark spices, lavender, crème de cassis, a host of dark-fleshed fruits and a touch of warm, resonant sweetness from the…

Two Imaginary Boys: Pichon-Lalande (Aug 2019)

The 1996 Pichon-Lalande has long been one of my favorite wines from this period. A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot, it has a quintessential Pauillac nose: very intense, brilliant and delineated, with pure blackberry, graphite and mint aromas bursting from the glass. The palate seems to…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Deep ruby-red. Very sexy aromas of currant, blackberry and brown sugar, all lifted by an ineffable floral quality from the thoroughly ripe cabernet sauvignon that comprises three-quarters of the blend. Dense, fresh and thick with extract; a wonderful combination of texture and guts. Has a core of steel and a powerful structure I haven’t found…

The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 1 (Jul 2007)

Deep ruby. Complex, heady bouquet of kirsch, candied plum, cured tobacco, licorice, dried rose and cedar. Pungent herbal notes build with aeration and repeat on the palate, adding complexity to the deep, ripe cherry and dark berry liqueur flavors. Remarkably elegant wine with precise cherry/berry flavors and a slow-mounting mocha quality on the long, sappy…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Deep purple-ruby. Initially muted on the nose, opening slowly to reveal hints of fresh blackcurrant and smoky sassafras. Then much sweeter and juicy in the mouth, with superripe blackberry, blueberry and mineral flavors. Finishes with sneaky concentration and good length, with youthfully aggressive tannins. I would have scored this even higher except for a nagging…