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2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

Powerful and brooding as a young wine from barrel, the 2015 Pétrus has developed exquisite finesse and nuance to play off its natural concentration. Winemaker Oliver Berrouet has always spoken of small berry size as one of the signatures of 2015. To be sure, there is plenty of textural richness and overall intensity. At the…

Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)

The 2015 Petrus has a fresh, detailed yet quite understated bouquet of black fruit, pencil box, smoke and light tarry aromas – very succinct and classy. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, and linear and quite strict in style, which might explain why I knocked off a point compared to my note in January…

Conterno Monfortino Magnum Vertical: 1970-2014 (Feb 2021)

Tasted from magnum, the 1990 Barolo Riserva is monumental. Words are so inadequate to describe the wine’s profound, moving beauty. The 1990 is a complete wine. It is at times delicate, in other moments more powerful as it takes hold of all the senses and causes all conversation at the table to cease. Rich, exotic…

2014 Barbaresco: An October Surprise (Oct 2017)

The 2014 Barbaresco Sorì San Lorenzo is the most virile and explosive of Gaja’s Barbarescos. Dark, brooding and powerful, with a huge spine of tannin, the San Lorenzo is utterly regal in the glass. Gravel, smoke, menthol, tar, licorice and a host of sepia-toned fruits build into a crescendo of aromas and flavors that is…

2014 Barbaresco: An October Surprise (Oct 2017)

Soft contours, silky tannins and sweet, perfumed fruit are some of the signatures in the 2014 Costa Russi. As always, Costa Russi is the most polished and open-knit of these wines in its youth. Succulent fruit, hard candy and lifted, perfumed aromatics give the 2014 considerable early appeal, but I expect time in bottle will…

2017 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: A Day’s Work (Jul 2020)

The 2017 La Tâche Grand Cru is another of the more expressive wines in the range. It opens with striking mid-palate pliancy and also possesses a level of inner sweetness the other wines don’t have, and yet there is plenty of the tannic clout that defines the Richebourg as well. Time in the glass allows…