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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Rully Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru comes from the domaine’s monopole, a hectare planted in 1952 located next to woods, ploughed twice a year and then tended by hand. The vines here are sensitive to both frost and heat. It is matured in five- or six-year-old barrels with just 10% new. It has a…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2020 Bourgogne Blanc has a fresh, slightly candied bouquet with orange blossom and discrete nectarine aromas. The palate is balanced with a pithy opening, slightly lower in acidity than other vintages with a light spiciness towards the finish. Fine.

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

One of the more powerful wines for the year, the 2014 Ducru-Beaucaillou surprises with its sheer concentration. A blast of dark cherry, crème de cassis, mocha, spice and chocolate makes a strong opening statement. Super-ripe, voluptuous and opulent, the wine possesses off-the-charts depth and richness. Ducru remains the most opulent and flamboyant of the 2014…

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 2014 Ducru-Beaucaillou is one of my favourite vintages of this decade and here it outclasses the 2015. Superb delineation, this exudes gorgeous blackberry and earthy scents on the nose, soon overtaken by saline, almost briny aromas wafting from the Gironde estuary. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins, layers of black fruit, sweet with…

Bordeaux 2014: The Southwold Tasting (Mar 2018)

The 2014 Ducru Beaucaillou has a refined bouquet with perfumed blackberry and briary scents, the oak neatly intertwined. The palate is medium-bodied with quite a sharp, penetrating entry, the acidity here higher than its peers. It is certainly fresh and tensile, more Pauillac in style than Saint Julien, with a strong graphite presence towards the…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Clos du Marquis was picked from 15 September until 4 October. It has an attractive and, in the context of Clos du Marquis, understated bouquet with endearing marine scents filtering through the red berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine balance. This has lost the "rondeur" that it exhibited out of barrel,…