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Mouton Rothschild: 2003-2015 (May 2016)

A wine of noble bearing and exceptional beauty, the 2010 Mouton Rothschild is a flat-out stunner. The aromatics alone are beguiling. On the palate, the wine is every bit as thrilling, with myriad layers of flavor that continue to open up in the glass. Graphite, gravel, smoke, plum, black cherry and savory herbs are all…

2016 Bordeaux: It’s Now or Never, Baby (Apr 2017)

The 2016 Domaine de l’A is plush and inviting. Dark cherry, chocolate and spice are pushed forward, and an aromatic lift from the Cabernet Franc appears on the midpalate and finish. This is an especially dense, rich wine for the appellation. Time should help the tannins settle down a bit. There is certainly plenty to…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Roc de Cambes is even better from bottle than it was from barrel. Rich, dense and explosive, with tremendous power the 2017 is positively stellar from the very first taste. Macerated dark cherries, sage, spice, star anise, orange zest, mint and new leather give the 2017 an exotic, racy feel that is hard…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Roc de Cambes has a vivid bouquet with ebullient redcurrant and cranberry fruit that "jump" out of the glass, yet the aromatics remain tender and graceful, to use two words uttered by François Mitjavile in describing the vintage. The palate is very well balanced with filigree tannins, dark berry fruit laced with clove…

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 2015 Batailley put in a querulous showing at the blind Southwold tasting, so I asked for another bottle at the property. It has a well-defined bouquet, although I am still seeking more cohesion and terroir expression. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, fine acidity and plenty of cedar-infused black fruit. There remains some…

Piedmont Within Reach (Dec 2022)

The 2020 Gaia & Rey (Chardonnay) is a classy, super-elegant wine. Orchard fruit, tangerine oil, white flowers and a touch of spice all run through this silky, polished Chardonnay from Gaja. The 2020 comes across as a bit subdued, but if the past is any indication, it will blossom with a few years in bottle.