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Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Glistening ruby. A highly perfumed nose evokes an array of fresh, mineral-accented red and dark fruits, exotic spices and pungent flowers, along with suggestions of olive and incense. Offers palate-staining and energetic cherry, cassis and floral pastille flavors that show superb energy and a smoky mineral quality that builds with air. Finishes on a youthfully…

Champagne: The Summer Preview (Jul 2015)

Long-time Chef de Caves Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon has produced yet another in a string of superb Champagnes with the 2007 Cristal. Rich, powerful and enveloping, the 2007 takes hold of all the senses and never lets up. The aromatics alone are captivating, but then the wine opens on the palate, revealing layer after layer of flavor…

The Red Wines of Northeast Italy (Mar 2012)

Bright ruby-red. Deep aromas of roasted plum, blackberry jam and red cherry, with complicating notes of raisin, fresh herbs and dark coffee. Soft and rich in the mouth, with an unctuous, almost syrupy texture and broad flavors of sweet raspberry, plum jam, orange peel and fruitcake. Finishes thick and long, with a sweet suggestion of…

Valdicava: Brunello di Montalcino 1988-2004 (Nov 2008)

The 1990 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano comes across as rather rustic. It is also a wine of contrasts in that elements of opulence and over-ripeness are accompanied by surprising freshness and vibrancy. Today it is hard to say how this curious inner tension will resolve itself, but at present it appears that…

2001 and 2000 Red Burgundies (Mar 2003)

Good deep red. Complex nose melds briary red berries, gunflint, tobacco and smoke; suggestion of cherry confiture. Silky, sweet and thick on entry, then concentrated, dense and pure in the middle palate. Perhaps a bit sauvage next to the Charmes but sappy, layered and long. Sound acids and broad, fine tannins give this plenty of…

New Releases from Australia (Jul 2002)

Very deep ruby-red. Deep, opulent aromas of ripe blackcurrant, dark plum, mulberry jam and violet, along with overt but nicely integrated oak notes of vanilla, chocolate and cigar box. Sumptuous, soft and ripe, long and creamy. Steeped in crushed ripe blackcurrant and blackberry fruit. Richly endowed cabernet, with plush, smoky coconut and vanillin oak, but…