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Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(85% cabernet sauvignon, 13% merlot and 2% cabernet franc; 13.8 % alcohol; 80% new oak) Saturated purple-ruby. Complex, sexy aromas of plum, dark chocolate and balsamic vinegar. The silky flavors of blackcurrant, tobacco and sweet oak show extraordinary baby fat and volume. Wonderfully rich and extremely powerful wine with a very long, perfumed back end….

2008 Bordeaux: A Day In A Life (Feb 2018)

The 2008 Cos d’Estournel had one of the most backward, reticent bouquets that I encountered during my tasting. This is so sultry and broody, begrudgingly offering some lovely brambly red fruit mixed with pencil box. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin, plenty of black fruit laced with allspice, black pepper and sage, leading to…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Les Carmes Haut-Brion has a crisp, focused bouquet with graphite infused black fruit, freshly tilled earth and pencil box. Wonderful. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannins and a lovely bead of acidity. A pure, detailed graphite and tobacco inspired finish fans out with grace. This is actually better than two or…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright red-ruby. Aromas of cherry, spiced plum, smoke and earth, plus a whiff of sweet butter. Juicy and a bit tight, showing moderate flesh and depth but good complexity to its flavors of red fruits, spices and minerals. There’s a good dollop of cabernet franc in this wine, and it shows in the youthfully imploded…

Bordeaux 2011: Tales of Tannins and Terroir (May 2012)

Opaque purple-ruby. Pure, penetrating aromas of blackcurrant, mint and balsamic reduction are complicated by notes of minerals, cocoa and smoke. Rich, dense and suave on entry, then refined and pure in the middle, delivering intense mineral and blackberry flavors. Finishes very long, with complicating nuances of coca and violet. One of the best-ever young Les…

Bending Rules: Les Carmes Haut-Brion 1955-2019 (Oct 2022)

The 2010 Les Carmes Haut-Brion was the first vintage under the new ownership, though they only took charge of the ageing. This has an intense bouquet with blackberry, wild hedgerow and light menthol aromas, just a little warmth of alcohol coming through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly minty opening, fleshy tannins,…