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2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Angélus is a gorgeous wine. Inky red fruit, mocha, espresso, dried flowers and iron give this potent, explosive Saint-Émilion tons of richness. The style is dense and heavily extracted – as was the norm at the time – and yet the 2005 is impeccably balanced. This is a magnificent showing from Hubert de…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good red-ruby. Deep, sweet aromas and flavors of black raspberry, cassis, graphite and licorice. Wonderfully lush, silky and seamless, with a near-perfect balance of fruit and acidity. Very full in the middle palate but with terrific verve leavening the wine’s total ripeness. This really coats the palate with flavor and the very long, slow-building finish…

2005 and 2004 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2007)

Saturated ruby. Superripe dark berry and cherry aromas, with an intense violet accent and a hint of minerals. Remarkably dense and packed with cherry and dark berry flavors, but with an energetic lift of acidity arriving on the back. Gets sweeter with air, taking on wild strawberry and raspberry qualities. Finishes with fine, dusty tannins…

2003 and 2002 Northern Rhone Wines (Jan 2005)

(from a crop level of just 15 hectoliters per hectare, which Philippe described as the smallest here in decades) Saturated ruby. Superripe aromas of liqueur-like black raspberry, smoked meat and roasted nuts. A wine of incredible confectionery sweetness, density and depth, and atypically large-scaled (14. 5% alcohol) and glyceral for La Mouline. To suggest it…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a 58/42 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot; 13.9% alcohol) Ruby red. Perfumed aromas of currant, spices and flowers show an intriguing candied quality. Light and lively on the palate, with suave, peppery dark berry and mineral flavors lifted by a spicy element on the back. Finishes long and pure, with noteworthy inner-mouth energy and…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Rauzan-Ségla has a classic, reserved but well-defined bouquet with blackberry, bilberry, cedar, light tobacco and violet scents, gradually gaining intensity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and a silky texture, not quite as complex as 2011 but well balanced. The acidity is nicely judged. There is more red fruit towards…