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Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 51% merlot and 49% cabernet sauvignon) Ruby-red. Precise aromas of red cherry, blackcurrant, cocoa and minerals. Bright and fresh in the mouth, with luscious flavors of red and black berries. Finishes clean and long, with an obviously inky/flinty note and mounting tannins that will need some time to resolve fully. A very…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Alter Ego de Palmer offers fleshy red cherry and wild strawberry scents on the nose, rose petal mixed with subtle mulch-like aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity, fresh and poised with an open and expressive, slightly ferrous finish. This has a lot of personality and it…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Medium red. Tangy, highly perfumed aromas of raspberry, cranberry, damson plum and cardamom. At once dense and penetrating, displaying excellent acidity and inner-mouth tension but a bit youthfully disjointed at present. This wine does not offer the early deliciousness of the Beaux Monts but it has even more nervosité and more tannic support. Finishes with…

This Is Not Morey-Saint-Denis (March 2019)

The 2016 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru, which had recently been bottled, has a tightly wound but intense bouquet that responds to aeration. The fruit appears a little darker than the 2015 with just a touch of pressed iris coming through. The palate is well balanced with a fresh, quite grippy entry. I admire the…

Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a beautifully defined nose, fresh as a daisy, yet unapologetically primal, requiring another 10-15 years to display its terroir. Everything is here on the palate: fine-boned tannins, layers of dark cherry and cassis fruit with underlying raspberry notes. It feels finely chiseled with just the right amount of opulence…

Vinous Table: Where Do I Eat In Burgundy? (Jan 2024)

The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru from Roumier offers copious amounts of black cherries and blueberry fruit. It is still a “baby”, though that doesn’t make it unenjoyable, even if you cannot help thinking that it needs at least another decade. The palate is framed by those succulent tannins, one of the tropes of the growing…