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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Bright ruby. Liqueur-like aromas of roasted black raspberry, leather and grilled nuts. Lush, sweet and thick, with an almost unctuous texture and terrific volume. A wine of compelling sweetness and chewiness, not to mention sheer mouthfilling size. Finishes with huge, broad, sweet tannins and lingering notes of blackcurrant, coffee and leather. Classic, thoroughly ripe Gruaud-Larose.

An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 2000 Gruaud Larose has a perfumed and floral nose, touches of leather, wild mint and just a little Brettanomyces in the background, though not as much as the 1990 tasted alongside. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fresher than the 1990, grainy tannins with touches of pencil lead and allspice. A little espresso…

2008 and 2007 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2010)

Deep ruby. Powerful, pungent aromas of kirsch, dark berries, smoky herbs and spicecake, with notes of black olive and tobacco coming on with air. Chewy, palate-staining dark fruit flavors are complicated by bitter chocolate, licorice and black cardamom. Acts like a 2005 today, with serious structure but also superb depth of powerful, densely packed fruit….

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2022: Bring It On (Jun 2024)

The vibrant 2007 Châteauneuf-du-Pape bursts with pronounced spice box, menthol, tobacco, black plum, iodine, licorice, leather and crushed violets. Offering a vertical sensation on the full-bodied palate, the 2007 captures the ripeness and concentration of the vintage without veering into jamminess. The savory finish is energetic and long-lasting. This is a stunning Clos des Papes…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Pape Clément is a blockbuster. Rich, heady and explosive, the 2005 packs a serious punch. Inky black fruit, new leather, spice, menthol, chocolate, gravel and scorched earth are all kicked up in this decidedly flamboyant Pessac-Léognan. The 2005 boasts tremendous depth, but equally lavish new oak. Even with all of the oak, the…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good deep red-ruby. Superripe, expressive nose offers black plum, smoke, spices and leather. Denser, sweeter and fatter than the 2006; even more generous and forward today. But this impressively chewy and rich wine also has a powerful underlying spine and plenty of lurking power. Finishes very ripe and very long, with the tannins buried by…