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2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Haut-Brion is an excellent wine. Despite its mid-weight structure, the 2021 possesses notable dynamic energy and layers of complexity that build with time in the glass. Scorched earth, leather, tobacco, incense, licorice and dried herbs are some of the many notes that open with aeration. The 2021 is a quiet, understated Haut-Brion, but…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Haut-Brion has a very pure bouquet, quite complex with a mixture of blueberry and black cherry fruit, iris flower and violet, hints of sea spray in the background. This is more engaging than the 2021 La Mission Haut-Brion at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, good fruit concentration considering the…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Haut-Brion has a more extravagant, charming bouquet compared directly with the La Mission at the moment, offering copious blackberry, black truffle, undergrowth and menthol scents. The palate is very well balanced, harmonious and poised, with fine-grained tannins and an almost pixelated finish. This Haut-Brion seems to have reveled in the cooler growing season,…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Haut-Brion is all class, all finesse. Naturally the overt intensity of recent vintages is replaced by a more understated style in 2021. Silky tannins caress a core of dark cherry/plum fruit. Hints of lavender, new leather, cloves and menthol gradually open. The trademark Haut-Brion aromatics are going to need a number of years…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Coutet needs time to cohere in the glass, eventually offering scents of dried honey, pressed flowers and quince. It just needs a little more pizzazz. The palate is well balanced with fine acidity and good weight and tension, showing the energy that is slightly lacking on the nose at the moment. Maybe it…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Coutet has another refined and (for Coutet) low-key bouquet that gradually finds its voice: quince, white peach, pineapple and beeswax scents. A faint hint of saffron that surfaces with aeration. The palate is well-balanced and quite viscous, bearing superb weight and a clean and pure, beautifully defined, botrytis-rich finish. Touches of vanilla emerge…