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Krug: Clos du Mesnil 1979-1998 (Jul 2011)

The 1989 Clos du Mesnil, from a warmer year, makes for a fascinating contrast to the cool inward 1988. It is a bigger, fatter wine that caresses the palate with layers of expansive, generous fruit. Sweet scents of caramel, hazelnuts and honey add complexity to the fruit. Despite its burnished, textured fruit, the 1989 remains…

Krug: Clos du Mesnil 1979-1998 (Jul 2011)

The 1989 Clos du Mesnil, from a warmer year, makes for a fascinating contrast to the cool inward 1988. It is a bigger, fatter wine that caresses the palate with layers of expansive, generous fruit. Sweet scents of caramel, hazelnuts and honey add complexity to the fruit. Despite its burnished, textured fruit, the 1989 remains…

The Best New Wines from Australia (Jul 2004)

Full red-ruby. Spicy, high-toned nose dominated by tar and bourbon notes of American oak, along with hints of moss and loam. Lush and sweet in the mouth, with nicely concentrated flavors of currant, plum, tobacco and coffee. Finishes with fresh fruit but also a distinctly dry edge from the oak. Will this wine ever really…

Champagne: The 2017 Summer Preview (Jul 2017)

Rich, creamy and radiant, the 2009 Cristal captures all of the natural generosity of the vintage while also retaining a good bit of freshness and aromatic intensity. Immediate and totally sensual in its allure, the 2009 will drink well with minimal cellaring. All things considered, at this stage, the 2009 comes across as relatively restrained…

2012 and 2011 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2014)

Glass-staining purple. Explosive aromas of dark berries, fresh violet and anise, with a hint of smokiness in the background. Sappy and incisive on the palate, offering deeply pitched, spice-tinged cassis and bitter cherry flavors accented by bitter herbs. Closes extremely long, with firm tannic grip and alluring sweetness, leaving a zesty mineral note behind. Showing…

The 2009 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Apr 2012)

This is not a great showing for the 2009 Echézeaux. Today the structural elements seem to dominate the wine’s balance. I find little of the seduction and charm the Echezeaux showed when its was in barrel. It is hard to believe this is a representative bottle.