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The Consistently Delectable 2014 Red Burgundies (Jan 2016)

(made from two one-hectare parcels of vines with a high average age and tiny yields, according to enologist Germain): Bright, full ruby. Wild, reduced aromas of crushed blackberry, black cherry and dark chocolate. Seamless and superripe, conveying superb density of material in a round, silky way. Black fruit and violet flavors are framed and lifted…

2011 and 2010 White Burgundies (Sep 2012)

Bright light-medium yellow. Soft citrus fruits, pineapple, butter, spices and smoky oak on the rather Meursault-like nose. Saline and tactile more than fruity on the palate, with moderate volume but very good intensity. Slightly aggressive on the back end: I wanted a bit more tension and definition.

Elegance and Power: The 2010 White Burgundies (Aug 2012)

The 2010 Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts flows across the palate with succulent yellow stone fruits, smoke, incense and floral overtones. This is another rich, generous 2010 from Girardin, yet there is a mineral dimension in the Referts that adds considerable balance. An attractive mélange of floral and saline nuances flows through to the finish.

The Many Facets of Rioja (Nov 2015)

Vivid red. The nose displays an array of ripe red fruits, pungent flowers and exotic spices, with vanilla bean and coconut accents building with air. Sweet, broad and luscious, offering intense cherry-vanilla and raspberry liqueur flavors that deepen on the back half. Shows excellent depth as well as finesse, with velvety tannins adding shape to…

2003 and 2002 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2005)

Medium yellow-gold. Reticent but pure aromas of fruit salad, spices and vanilla, lifted by floral and mineral nuances. Wonderfully honeyed, fat fruit flavors are complemented by cinnamon, clove and nutmeg. The sexy oak treatment gives lift to the wine. A bit youthfully aggressive but very long on the back end, showing vanillin oak and a…

2009 and 2008 Northern Rhone Wines (Jan 2011)

Deep ruby. A highly aromatic bouquet of black raspberry, licorice, smoky Indian spices and dark chocolate. Chewy and deep in dark fruit flavor but possesses impressive energy, with a zesty kick of minerals on the back end. Finishes spicy and long, repeating the licorice note. Rostaing told me that about 20% of this blend comes…