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2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Brane-Cantenac is fabulous. Effusive and explosive to the core, the 2005 possesses tons of energy and pedigree to burn. Crushed flowers, mint, gravel, red/purplish fruit, sage and mocha abound. In 2005 Brane-Cantenac is remarkably deep and vivid. It also comes across as needing a bit more time to soften. Readers will find one…

Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015 (Jan 2019)

The 2005 Brane-Cantenac, which was picked September 17 to October 10, has a suave, elegant bouquet of blackberry, cedar, gravel and tobacco scents, certainly showing more intensity and energy than any of the last five vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with fine and surprisingly supple tannins that are finally beginning to soften. I love the…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good bright red-ruby. Subdued but pure aromas of currant, dark chocolate and sexy oak. Moderately sweet, medium-bodied and vinous, with ripe acidity and a floral element providing mid-palate lift. Still a bit medicinal and unevolved, but this has the serious structure to develop slowly and well in bottle. Finishes long and firm.

Chablis 2016 & 2015: Quality Over Quantity (Aug 2017)

(half of this wine was raised in oak): Pale, bright yellow. Ripe, smoky scents of white peach, soft citrus fruits and pepper. In a distinctly fatter style, showing lovely pliancy and depth, but with its almost oily thickness firmed on the end by surprising acid nerve and a late lemony note. Little obvious sign of…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Nénin has a straightforward bouquet that leans more towards red than black fruit, a touch of Chinese 5-spice developing with aeration, hints of dark chocolate. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins and a fine bead of acidity. It is not a complex Pomerol, but there is plenty of substance with a lovely…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Nénin offers fleshy red cherries and crushed strawberry scents on the “airy” nose. There is an underlying mintiness that becomes more noticeable with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly dry tannins on the entry. This is another quite “serious” 2010 Bordeaux, one where I would have liked to see more persistence on…