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His Father’s Son: Grand Mayne 1955-2011 (May 2021)

The 2005 Grand Mayne has a broody bouquet, quite closed compared to the 2004 with black rather than red fruit, laced with chimney soot and tobacco scents. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins, bold structure and superb acidity keeping everything tied together. Plenty of energy here, white pepper and clove notes towards the vibrant,…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Full ruby-red. Superripe aromas of kirsch and bitter chocolate; slightly porty. Then dense and chocolatey in the mouth, with very ripe currant flavor firmed by menthol and sound acidity. I like the sugar/acid balance here, but the wine comes across as a bit beefy and aggressive, and the finish shows a dry edge. Seems rather…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a 73/27 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot; 3.75 ph; 14% alcohol) Dark ruby. Perfumed, floral aromas of black cherry, violet and lavender. Enters bright and fruity, with savory black cherry and blackcurrant flavors, then turns increasingly tight and austere on the back, finishing with slightly astringent tannins and persistent, pure black fruit flavors. Though…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Capbern Gasqueton is a wine that I never tasted en primeur. It has a very intense bouquet with blackberry, tobacco, dried blood and loamy aromas that vie for attention, all served up with impressive delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins, a lovely rondeur here that counterbalances the structure of the vintage….

Northern Rhône: Where Diversity Ignites the Senses (Mar 2024)

The medium- to full-bodied 2015 Hermitage La Chapelle unwinds with expressive rose petal, crushed violets, black pepper, licorice and ripe blackberry. Wafts of graphite, cedar and tobacco add more layers. Polished tannins neatly frame this concentrated La Chapelle that demands at least four more years in bottle.

’16 vs. ’15 Northern Rhône: Heads You Win, Tails You Win (Apr 2018)

Bright purple. Explosive, smoke- and spice-accented blueberry, cherry cola, incense and smoky mineral aromas show outstanding delineation and pick up a hint of olive with aeration. Sweet and expansive on the palate, offering deeply concentrated dark berry liqueur, fruitcake and floral pastille flavors, along with a suggestion of star anise. The remarkably long, penetrating finish…