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New Zealand’s Pellucid Wines: More Light Than Heat (May 2016)

(from a 2001 planting on deep silt soil that’s not too different from Felton Road’s Block 3; vinified with 22% whole clusters): Healthy medium red. Slightly darker and less open to inspection than the Bannockburn Pinot; more brooding on the nose but still more red fruit than black, with attractive floral/spicy lift. A rather tight,…

Archive Away: Mature Burgundies 1919-2019 (Jun 2024)

The 2014 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru puts in a convincing performance. With brambly red berry fruit on the nose, the coolness of the growing season allows the mineralité of this to really shine, with time in the glass revealing hints of autumn bonfire/fireside hearth. The palate is beautifully structured. It’s saline with darker…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Healthy full red. Compelling soil-driven scents of raspberry, coffee, underbrush and smoky minerality. Wonderfully rich, smoky and deep but also with the vintage’s sappy, floral lift to its raspberry and strawberry fruit flavors. Perhaps best today on the extremely long finish, where the tannins are refined but substantial and will still need considerable patience. A…

Alsace 2012s and Early-Released 2013s (Apr 2015)

Fairly pale gold-tinged color. Captivating aromas of lemon custard, quince, brown spices, smoke and wet stone. Highly concentrated and on the dry side, with a powerful spice character contributing to an impression of power. Conveys a tactile sense of high dry extract and finishes with chewy tannins and lingering notes of bitter orange peel and…

Purple Reign: La Conseillante 1966-2015 (May 2018)

The 1988 La Conseillante displays a smudged, rustic bouquet laden with dusky, dark berried fruits, dried blood (rusty iron piping) and a touch of mocha. The palate is medium-bodied with a spicy entry, good structure with the Cabernet Franc defining the crisp finish with hints of allspice and sous-bois. Though not quite as smitten as…

2010 and 2009 Southern Rhone Wines (Jan 2012)

Vivid ruby. Compelling aromas of raspberry preserves, potpourri and blood orange, with a spicy overtone. Juicy and precise, offering palate-staining, deeply concentrated red fruit flavors that expand and gain spiciness with air. Finishes seamless and sweet, with intense lingering florality. Offers an impressive combination of depth and vivacity.