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Vinous Lockdown Special (Oct 2020)

Richness and energy come together so well in the 2017 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru. Time in the glass brings out the wine’s curves, but the 2017 is so young, especially when tasted next to some of the older wines in this mini-vertical. Lemon confit, marzipan and white flowers add that extra touch of inner perfume and…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Whites – Blind (Aug 2021)

The 2017 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has a little SO2 to address on the nose, though behind it are pretty, floral aromatics with plenty of fruit. The palate delivers a tangy entry and fine acidity. Lightly spiced with sour lemon toward a finish that does attenuate slightly and leaves you wanting more. I ended up liking…

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

Bright yellow. Lemon drop and oil, peach, hazelnut and flowers on the subtly complex nose. Tactile and brisk on entry, then thick and energetic in the middle palate, conveying a distinct impression of sweetness countered by pure saline minerality. The wine’s peachy fruit hints at almost honeyed ripeness without losing its verve. Finishes with outstanding…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Whites – Blind (Aug 2021)

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère 1er Cru has a light bouquet of undergrowth and wet pavement, a little subdued at first but finding its voice with aeration. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, and there is some beautifully integrated oak here. Harmonious and poised with wonderful weight and…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2006 Grand-Puy-Lacoste is an impressive wine for the vintage. Though this example was poured blind at the property, I have encountered better bottles, and this shows a little volatility on the nose. The palate has plenty of concentration, more like a 2005 in style with plush blackberry and blueberry fruit. Good grip and assertive…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Good dark red. Perfumed, ineffable aromas of currant, cherry skin, floral oils and incense. Then juicy and penetrating on the palate, with excellent concentration and thrust to the soil-inflected flavors of currant, minerals and iron. Very suave, pure wine with the structure to age.