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Best New Releases from Australia (Jul 2001)

Impressively saturated ruby. Port-like aromas of roasted black fruits, bitter chocolate and violet, along with a whiff of bourbon. A wine of headspinning power, density and concentration, just short of over the top. Extremely rich flavors of cassis, leather, tar and pepper. Ultimately more complex than the Hillside bottling but also a bit warmer today….

Santa Barbara’s Stunning 2011s (Jul 2013)

The appropriately named 2010 Todos is drop-dead gorgeous. Jammy dark fruit, grilled herbs and spices all flesh out in this succulent, intense red. Sensual and polished through to the finish, Todos is once again terrific in 2010. I especially like the way the 2010 brightens up with air. The blend is 78% Syrah, 8% Sangiovese,…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Village has a promising bouquet of quite intense, mineral-driven citrus fruit and a subtle reduction that works well. The nicely poised palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity and impressive energy on the finish. It may be a mere village cru, but it is a very good example.

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Bright, saturated ruby-red. Complex, soil-driven aromas of black raspberry, game and smoky crushed rock. Smooth, thick Gevrey villages with noteworthy elegance of texture and lovely vinosity to its dark fruit flavors. Spreads out to caress and dust the palate and tongue on the back end, finishing with pure dark fruit flavors complicated by spices and…

2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Moderately saturated medium red. Redcurrant, dried flowers and brown spices on the nose, with attractive earthy complexity. Nicely concentrated, terroir-driven Pommard, with good energy to the flavors of sweet spices, flowers, red fruits and earth. Nicely sappy wine with a persistent finish featuring fine dusty tannins, a suggestion of licorice and good lift and length.

Alsace: The 2014s and Late-Release 2013s (Feb 2016)

Bright straw-gold. Minty herbs and flint complement rich, ripe citrus fruit and vanilla aromas. Dense, very ripe and suave, showing spicy sweetness and outstanding length to the tropical fruit and floral flavors. A caramelly botrytis presence on the finish adds charm but is a bit overpowering. This is the first-ever cru bottling for the Hugel…