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2000 and 1999 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2002)

Medium-deep red-ruby. Roasted, tarry red fruits, animal fur and chocolate on the nose; as vibrant and vinous as a barrel sample. Extremely lush and concentrated, and already highly aromatic in the mouth, with notes of red and black fruits, roasted nuts, spices, chocolate and tobacco. Beautifully integrated acidity. Finishes very long, with substantial, very fine…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 2008 Calon-Ségur has a perfumed, floral bouquet that is wonderfully detailed; raspberry and cranberry fruit flanked by rose petal and subtle iris aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin and a crisp line of acidity. This is brisk and focused with a light black pepper note cropping up on the finish, the aftertaste…

The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)

Red-ruby. Musky, expressive aromas of mocha, smoke, menthol, black olive, underbrush and herbs. A sweet, silky midweight with a strong streak of acidity running through the moderately ripe flavors of currant, black cherry, herbs and minerals. Not hugely ripe but nicely fine-grained. Quite suave but rather ungiving today–and not yet delivering on its complex nose.

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(80% cabernet sauvignon, 18% merlot and 2% petit verdot; a 50% selection for the grand vin; 80% new oak) Deep ruby-red. Captivating aromas of blackcurrant, sweet spices and milk chocolate, nicely lifted by hints of minerals and graphite. Enters the mouth creamy and fruity, with flavors of small berries and plum, then turns somewhat tighter…

Cellar Favorites: 1996 & 1985 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande (Feb 2016)

What a treat it is to taste these two Pichon Lalandes straight from the chateau’s cellar. The 1996 Pichon Lalande is stratospheric from the very first taste. The deep, layered bouquet alone is deeply transfixing. Smoke, mocha, dark spices, lavender, crème de cassis, a host of dark-fleshed fruits and a touch of warm, resonant sweetness from the…

Two Imaginary Boys: Pichon-Lalande (Aug 2019)

The 1996 Pichon-Lalande has long been one of my favorite wines from this period. A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot, it has a quintessential Pauillac nose: very intense, brilliant and delineated, with pure blackberry, graphite and mint aromas bursting from the glass. The palate seems to…