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2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Alter Ego is pliant, textured and supple. Expressive floral notes add inner perfume and freshness to a core of dark red berry fruit, mocha, new leather, spice and menthol. A wine of striking textural richness, Alter Ago also remains light on its feet and wonderfully nuanced. The 13% alcohol, low by present-day standards,…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Alter Ego was bottled a little later than others at the end of August 2019. Deep garnet in colour, it has a refined bouquet with blackberry, cedar, crushed violets, hints of orange pith and incense, all very well defined but understated. The palate is medium-bodied with a lightly spiced entry. Fine tannins, a…

The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)

The 1986 Petrus out-performs the 1985 not for the first time. Although you could argue that it plays safe, the bouquet has more energy and delineation than the previous vintage with Cuban cigar, undergrowth and potpourri aromas. Attractive, though you do end up yearning for more fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with mulberry and sage….

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

Tasted from magnum, the 2004 Grande Cuvée Rosé Alexandra, Laurent-Perrier’s flagship Rosé is a blend of 80% Pinot Noir (on the skins) and 20% Chardonnay vinified together that has only been bottled seven times since 1982. From the very first taste, the 2004 is utterly spectacular. Rich, ample and vertical in feel, the 2004 is…

2011 and 2010 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2013)

Bright ruby. Spice- and herb-accented aromas of dried cherry, cassis and licorice. Deep and chewy in texture, offering powerful dark berry and bitter cherry flavors that slowly gain sweetness with air. Closes with firm tannic grip and lingering spiciness. Give this wine at least a few more years of age.

Cellar Favorite: 1971 Latour & 1971 Les Forts de Latour (Jul 2024)

The 1971 Les Forts de Latour is a vintage I encountered once before in London. This example, poured blind at the château against the Grand Vin, is much better. This is immediate on the nose, the fruit with traces of more raspberry and wild strawberry than the Grand Vin, bright and open-knit. Pencil-shaving hints emerge…