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In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 2002 Latour is a wine that has impressed ever since I first tasted it from barrel and subsequently both in sighted and blind conditions. It offers disarming black fruit laced with tobacco and graphite on the nose, this bottle showing less of the Christmas cake that I remarked in previous bottles. Firm in structure,…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

Red-ruby. Blackcurrant, graphite and minerals on the nose. Sweet, fleshy and dense, with an impeccable sugar/acid balance. Strong mineral tones and firm acids. Finishes long and gripping, with excellent tannic spine and lift. A bit like the 2002 Les Forts de Latour but turned up a notch or two. But not quite as perfumed as…

1998 and 1997 Sauternes (Jul 2000)

Captivating, tangy aromas of vineyard peach, pear, white flowers and curry powder. Supple and very concentrated; thick but lively thanks to perfectly integrated acidity. Fruit notes nicely complemented by spice tones. Conveys a tactile impression of extract. Long and strong on the back end. Still quite youthfully unevolved and built for long life.

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

The 2005 Dom Pérignon is starting to enter its first plateau of maturity, where the aromas and flavors show the early signs of the development that takes place over time in bottle. Apricot, candied orange peel, dried flowers, mint and pineapple are nicely delineated in the glass. Soft and silky on the palate, the 2005…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Cheval Blanc has been a lauded wine ever since release. I have often, quite controversially felt that it never quite matched its startling performances in its first ten years, though it remains and excellent wine. Now at 20-years old it offers opulent, high-toned scents of maraschino cherry, iodine, crème de cassis, dried blood…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full, bright medium ruby. Nose shows an almost liqueur-like ripeness, along with notes of bitter chocolate and menthol; a great expression of ripe but youthfully unevolved cabernet franc. Extremely dense and pure but still quite tight and showing a minty austerity. Wonderful acids give the wine superb clarity of flavor. This will require another decade…