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2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

A big, powerful wine, the 2012 Haut-Brion possesses stunning richness and intensity, with all of the depth that is lacking in so many other wines in this vintage. Not here. The 2012 possesses remarkable depth and tons of raw, animal power that is going to require considerable time in bottle to soften. Readers should be…

Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(65.5% merlot, 32.5% cabernet sauvignon and 2% cabernet franc; 44 h/h): Deep ruby-red. Compelling perfume of dark berries, red cherry, licorice, violet and bitter chocolate. Highly concentrated and penetrating, with superb sappiness to the rich flavors of raspberry, brown spices, cocoa powder and smoky black pepper. This big, rich wine displays outstanding spine and grip…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2012 Haut-Brion is beginning to flex its muscles. The bouquet is perhaps one of the most backward of the five First Growths, the Merlot firmly in the driving seat. Blackcurrant mixes with pitted black olives and cedar, and light sous-bois scents percolate through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins, very good…

Taittinger: Comtes de Champagne 1971— 1998 (Aug 2010)

The 1989 Comtes de Champagne is darker in color than the 1988 and also quite a bit more forward. Candied orange peel, spices and caramel suggest it is on a fairly quick path. Today the 1989 is most impressive for its generous texture and complete, developed personality. This won’t make old bones, but it is…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

(13.8% natural alcohol) Bright ruby-red. Superripe berry and chocolate aromas, with a whiff of surmaturite Fat, sweet and large-scaled, offering extraordinary volume and an almost syrupy thickness leavened by surprisingly sound acidity. This saturates the entire mouth yet manages to avoid coming off as heavy. Finishes very long and sweet, with thoroughly integrated tannins. The…

An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 2005 Gruaud Larose was tasted from two bottles at the estate as the first was corked. The second offers intense black fruit with juniper and cedar notes, but something prevents it from blossoming, like the 1982, for example. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit. It’s a broad-shouldered Gruaud with a firm grip,…