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A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2002 Lafite-Rothschild is surprisingly dark in colour. It also has a surprisingly concentrated bouquet with blackberry, sous-bois and brine. Hints of steaming cups of espresso percolate through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with a little chewiness on the entry. Quite briny and saline, a little rustic in terms of tannic profile and perhaps…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

Bright, dark ruby-red. Subdued but pure aromas of currant, plum, minerals, graphite, and sexy, coconutty oak; showed a floral note with aeration. Extremely suave, fine-grained and concentrated, with a strong spine of acidity. Finishes firmly tannic, subtle and very long. This should develop slowly.

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1989 Mouton-Rothschild can be variable from bottle to bottle. This example has an odd nose with a dab of wild mint. It just lacks a bit of class and feels clammed shut most of the time. The palate is medium-bodied, slightly chewy and has darker fruit compared directly with the 1989 Lafite-Rothschild. It coheres…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

Whereas the 1989 Mouton-Rothschild opened at 67 Pall Mall failed to pass muster, this bottle tasted four months later was outstanding, many voting it the standout wine of the 1989 dinner. It has a quintessential Pauillac nose that gains more and more complexity with aeration: blackberry, pencil shavings, and freshly rolled tobacco, all wrapped up…

In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1973 Latour, gallantly poured from double magnum, displays a curious kidney bean, almost liver-like scent on the nose that is strangely attractive. The palate is medium-bodied, with big-boned tannin, a Latour that lacks grace with a dry, possibly very chaptalized finish, and yet not unattractive. Provenance and size of format are likely to have…

New Releases from Champagne (Dec 2008)

The house’s 1998 La Grande Dame reveals notable clarity and precision. This focused, poised wine emerges from the glass with well-articulated flowers, pears, smoke, crisp apples and minerals in a medium-bodied style. The wine appears to have enough freshness and sheer depth to support another decade or so of aging. La Grand Dame represents a…