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The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good bright ruby-red. Complex, perfumed aromas of blueberry, boysenberry, smoke, mocha, spices and cedar. Sweet and plush in the mouth, with an enticing floral element and a whiff of orange peel lifting the blueberry, coffee, camphor and spice flavors. Fine-grained, concentrated, minerally Pauillac with suave, fully buffered tannins and excellent length and lingering perfume. And…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Lagrange is deep in color and sports a bouquet very similar to the bottle poured at the vertical, resplendent with blackberry, pencil box and a discreet ash scent. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, and maybe less brutish than the previous bottle, displaying more cohesion and less austerity on the finish. This…

Three Vertical Tastings (Sep 2004)

(includes 76% cabernet sauvignon, the highest percentage ever at Lagrange) Deep, saturated bright ruby-purple. Brooding aromas of cassis, violet and cedar (hibernating now, says Ducasse). Very densely packed but very closed and extremely backward. Nearly painful flavors of black fruits, violet and menthol. Finishes very firm and very long, with powerful tannins supported by the…

Vinous Table: Chez Bruce, London, UK (Aug 2019)

The 2000 Vieux-Château-Certan is a Pomerol that I had not encountered for some time. Perhaps this vintage has lost some of its initial luster, not least because the consensus from winemakers and consumers alike is that the appellation performed far better in 2001. This millennial VCC has a saturnine nose even after almost two decades,…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

(70% merlot, 20% cabernet franc and 10% cabernet sauvignon) Moderately saturated ruby-red. More merlot-dominated aromas of raspberry, plum, espresso, mocha and game. Silky, lush and thick, with compelling flavors of boysenberry, bitter cherry and dark chocolate. Complex, smoky, lively wine, finishing with strong torrefaction notes and lovely subtle persistence. The merlot component here goes through…

Memories Elide: Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020 (Jul 2024)

The 2000 Vieux Château Certan, which contains 20% Cabernet Franc, shows minor aging on the rim. The bouquet has opened up since I last tasted it, predominantly black fruit laced with licorice, less of the chimney soot aspect that I observed six years ago, though with a light Earl Grey scent. The palate is medium-bodied…