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The Vast Bounty of Central Spain (Feb 2021)

Saturated ruby. An amazingly complex array of red and blue fruit preserve, spice and floral scents is accompanied by suggestions of incense, pipe tobacco, coconut and candied licorice. Utterly stains the palate with impressively concentrated yet lively, smoke- and spice-laced cherry compote, blueberry, fruitcake and violet pastille flavors braced by a spine of juicy acidity….

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has an earthy nose compared to its peers, the fruit profile more introspective with subtle marine scents emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent tannin matched with a silver bead of acidity. Backward and broody, I was not the only person at this tasting alarmed by…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(Jadot’s vines in the lower part of the clos produced a normal yield in 2016): Bright, dark red. Medicinal red cherry, licorice, herbs and a strong element of spicy oak on the nose. Concentrated, savory and flavorful, communicating an impression of medicinal reserve. A classic, rather old-fashioned, masculine style of Clos Vougeot but not rustic…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Domaine de Chevalier remains a mystery. In multiple tastings I have found the 2017 to be soft and supple, but also lacking complexity and the pedigree that make the finest vintages so exciting. There is good energy at the outset, but then the wine narrows on the mid-palate and finish. Tasted three times.

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Domaine de Chevalier was impressive from barrel. Bottled since June 2019, it has clearly retained that gorgeous nose with delineated scents of blackberry, black olive, shucked oyster shells and orange rind. Wonderful vigour here. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, lithe and very focused. It is not a powerful nor indeed a…

2002 and 2001 White Burgundies (Sep 2003)

(domain wine, from 28-year-old vines) Peach and pear fruit aromas along with oak notes of coconut and vanilla. Juicy, sweet and supple, with expressive peachy flavor. Easy to taste today. This will develop more rapidly than Girardin’s other grand crus.