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Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru feels just a little flat on the nose; it’s clean but needs to convey more energy. The palate is fleshy with lower acidity than its peers – a Pommard that is “open for business.” Sweet with candied orange peel and black pepper on the finish. Fine, but…

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Weathers the Challenges and Changes (Oct 2021)

Glass-staining ruby. Dark berry preserves, cherry cola, Moroccan spices and licorice on the intensely perfumed, mineral-accented nose. Palate-staining, sharply focused black/blue fruit, spicecake and candied violet flavors show superb energy for their depth. Picks up mocha and succulent herb nuances with air. it finishes extremely long and smoky, with resonating floral and spice notes and…

The Undiscovered Burgundy (Jun 2017)

A powerful, intense wine, the 2015 Santenay Clos des Mouches brings together power, tension and energy. Beams of supporting acidity extend the fruit beautifully in this super-expressive, nuanced Burgundy. Hints of white pepper, orange zest and cranberry add an attractive upper register. This is a absolutely gorgeous wine from David Moreau.

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru has a gorgeous bouquet of dark berry fruit, crushed stone and touches of truffle and iodine. It just bursts from the glass. The palate is very ripe and sweet on the entry, displaying a lot of sucrosity and a very vibrant finish laden with cola-tinged black fruit….

Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Haut-Bailly showed extremely well when I tasted it at my home during lockdown. Now in bottle since spring 2022, it upholds a wonderful bouquet with multi-layered black fruit laced with briary, flint, blood orange and light peony scents. That orange element becomes a touch more pronounced with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with…

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Haut-Bailly was picked September 9–25 in what the estate has called the "year of reinvention." Having left my sample to open for 30 minutes and then assessed it over the following three hours, I found that it has a mercurial nose of gorgeous blackberry, briar, white pepper, incense and hints of blood orange….