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Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 2000 Lynch-Bages is well defined on the nose with blackberry, cedar, humidor and crushed rose petals, one of the most elegant of this era. There is real pedigree here, obviously from a benevolent growing season. The palate is harmonious and framed by fine-boned tannins, the acidity well judged. It is not a powerful Lynch-Bages…

An Ineluctable Pair: 2017 Vintage Ports (Jun 2019)

The 2017 Dow’s Vintage Port showed a slight reduction and required more time to really open in the glass. Typical of Dow’s it has a more backward and introspective bouquet compared to its peers, scents of blackberry, clove, wild mint, cassis and vanilla, gradually gaining more intensity with aeration. The palate is simply glorious. It…

Value Through Time: Burgundy 1932-2016 (Aug 2021)

The 2004 Chambertin Grand Cru from Rousseau has a rather stemmy, slightly mulchy nose, which is expected from this vintage, irrespective of how noble the vineyard or producer. It is nicely defined, with brown spices developing, though here is it predictably dwarfed by the 1996. The palate is medium-bodied with gentle grip and hints of…

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

Good full red. Tight, pure nose hints at black cherry, licorice and minerals; showing more oak today than the Beze. Cooler and more vibrant today than the Beze, coming across as tighter but less voluminous, with less early sex appeal. Medicinal red and black cherry dominate in the mouth. The fireworks come on the back…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Langoa-Barton has a rich bouquet for the vintage. It lacks a bit of purity compared to previous bottles, with earthy and mushroom secondary scents coming through. The palate is sensual and quite plush, soft tannins framing the black cherries, allspice, cedar and mint notes that blossom in the glass. Fully matured and yet…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Red-ruby. Aromas of plum, black raspberry, black cherry, smoke and leather. Lush but slightly tart, with plum and black raspberry flavors along with a light leathery note. Offers good texture but only modest sweetness.