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Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 46% merlot, 39% cabernet sauvignon, 13% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot; 14% alcohol; pH 3.88; 77 IPT) Dark ruby-red. Reticent, brooding nose hints at red cherry, blackcurrant, violet, minerals and cedar. Extremely fine-grained and smooth, with harmonious acidity giving laser-like precision to the red fruit and mineral flavors. Completely devoid of…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Cheval Blanc (Oct 2011)

61% merlot and 39% cabernet franc): Good full ruby. Crystallized blackcurrant, licorice, cedar and menthol on the nose, complicated by cocoa and smoky minerals. Round and ripe but not thick or heavy on the palate, featuring tangy flavors of black cherry, licorice, graphite and spices. At once creamy and juicy, with good breadth and fine…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Cheval Blanc is a vintage that has never quite rocked my boat, and at 20 years of age, it still doesn’t. The bouquet feels a little simple and quite high-toned for Cheval Blanc, driven by the Merlot and trying too hard to impress. The palate is medium-bodied with robust tannin and sweet candied…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Full ruby-red. Aromas of currant, bitter chocolate, violet, lead pencil and tobacco leaf; less black and more red than the 2000 and 2001. Fat, sweet and full, with smoke and currant flavors. Long on personality but it’s hard to imagine this wine ever showing as much complexity as either of the subsequent two vintages. Finishes…

2011 and 2010 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2013)

Glass-staining ruby. Sexy, floral- and spice-accented aromas of candied cherry, black raspberry and cola, with a subtle suggestion of vanilla in the background. Offers an array of lively red and dark fruit and floral pastille flavors that gain flesh and weight with aeration. Closer in style to the Mouline than the Landonne this year. Closes…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

Good ruby-red. Aromas of black raspberry, smoke, gravel, licorice and sexy oak. Densely packed and a bit austere, marked by the oak today and showing some rather strong, edgy acidity. Finishes with big, broad, dusty, building tannins but less obvious oak influence than the nose suggests. In a somewhat awkward stage today. Pomerol