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2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Suduiraut is such a classy wine. Crème brûlée, orange marmalade, vanilla bean, mint, apricot, honey, hazelnut and truffle lend a sense of exoticism throughout. The 2005 is unctuous but not heavy. It perhaps lacks the dimension of the very best years, but that in no way detracts from the pleasure it provides. To…

What Nectar!! Suduiraut 1899-2015 (March 2019)

The 2005 Suduiraut has been a curious vintage, the bottles perhaps a little more inconsistent than ensuing years. Here, the bouquet takes a while to get going, eventually settling with dried honey, quince and a touch of baking powder. The palate is well balanced with a viscous opening, delivering notes of orange rind, Clementine, white…

2007 and 2005 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2008)

Medium yellow-gold. Incredibly sweet aromas of apricot, acacia honey and marzipan. Supersweet, round and fat, but with enough ripe acidity to leaven the wine’s huge impression of volume. A powerfully fruit-driven Sauternes with superb depth, but it’s almost too rich today. Finishes with palate-staining sweetness and length and surprisingly fresh acidity (I suspect the actual…

2007 and 2005 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2008)

Yellow-gold color. Sexy aromas of ripe apricot, pear, honey and nutty oak show a distinctly exotic side. Then supersweet and concentrated on the palate, showing more sheer sweetness and power than any particular flavor component. Almost sugary on the finish, but long and quite unevolved. Today this gives the impression of being a wine with…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 53% cabernet sauvignon, 40% merlot and 7% cabernet franc; 13.2% alcohol; ph 3.87; IPT 75; 37% selection) Aromas of spicy plum, stony minerals and herbs are currently a bit subdued. Suave and fine-grained, with a light touch to its rather wild flavors of blackcurrant, licorice, minerals and violet. Finishes with easygoing tannins…

Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015 (Jan 2019)

The 2009 Brane-Cantenac was picked from September 22 to October 9 with a modest 13.4° alcohol. This has long been a great Margaux. It is very delineated and yet very generous on the bravura bouquet of blackberry, raspberry, crushed stone, cedar and a touch of mint. The palate is fresh and bursting with energy right…