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The Red Wines of Northeast Italy (Mar 2012)

Good deep ruby-red. Very ripe aromas of redcurrant and crushed rock, with a red berry liqueur-like nuance. Supple, lush and sweet, but with surprising acidity and a recurring mineral quality energizing the middle palate. Finishes with smooth tannins and very good length. This has the stuffing to age but also offers considerable upfront appeal.

Northern Italy: Alto Adige, Friuli, Veneto (Feb 2011)

The 2007 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico is all elegance and class. It possesses gorgeous depth and roundness in an accessible style best suited for near and mid-term drinking. I don’t quite find the structure of the 2006, instead the 2007 impresses for its silky tannins and overall sense of harmony. As always, Allegrini’s Amarone is…

Vinous Table: Brat, London, UK (Aug 2018)

The 1989 Chasse-Spleen offers chestnut and black truffle on the nose, with a touch of dried blood, comfortably revealing in its secondary aromas. The palate is wonderfully balanced, the dusty black fruit laced with cedar and charcoal, a hint of soy on the “old school” finish. The 1989 has held up wonderfully and, though maybe…

Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

Good bright red-ruby. Coffee and chocolate scents of new oak complement deep strawberry and dark cherry aromas on the brooding nose. On the palate, sweet cassis, black plum and mineral flavors are lifted by an element of peppery herbs. Finishes youthfully dry, with building tannins and suggestions of herbs, pepper and mint. Lovely balance and…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Canon just misses a little delineation on the nose, smudged red berry fruit, desiccated orange peel, camphor and fresh figs. The palate is medium-bodied with rounded tannins, a generous dab of white pepper sprinkled over the red fruit, clove and sage towards the balanced and focused finish. Perhaps just compromised by the aromatics…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2005 Batailley is dark in hue with little aging on the rim. The nose is backward, tight and almost “moody”, piqued that it did not undergo a three- to four-hour decant. Firm tannins frame the palate. The oak may not be as assimilated as the best 2005s. Dark chocolate and espresso hints develop with…