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The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Brilliant deep red. Very ripe, new-oaky aromas of raspberry and cherry, with floral, herbal and lilac nuances. Very dense, supple and concentrated; the underlying structure is not as obvious as in the ’86 or ’88 because the wine is so ripe and fleshy. Finishes with ripe but substantial tannins. 91(+?). One of three bottles tasted…

An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 1990 Gruaud Larose is a strange fellow on the nose. Milk chocolate, leather and touches of caramel are fully mature, but it is totally eclipsed by the 1982 by direct comparison. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly leathery, bretty opening. With fine acidity and modest depth, I feel that compared to previous bottles,…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

A gorgeous second wine, the 2014 La Dame de Montrose is soft, open-knit and very pretty. Bright floral notes add lift and a measure of elegance to the dark-fleshed fruit. Medium in body, with good depth and fine overall balance, the 2014 is just about as good as it gets for a second wine. I…

Bordeaux 2014: The Southwold Tasting (Mar 2018)

The 2014 La Dame de Montrose has a relatively straightforward bouquet with tobacco-tinged black fruit that need more focus and detail. The palate is medium-bodied with good density, a little chewy, a Saint Estèphe with sinew and backbone, the finish a little heavy-handed and perhaps trying too hard to impress? Tasted blind at the annual…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 La Dame de Montrose is more precocious than Lafon-Rochet on the nose, with hints of dried cherries and black olive compote infusing the black fruit, touches of humidor and red brick. The palate is medium-bodied with dusky black fruit, fine tannins and a little austerity towards the finish, though at least it does…

Champagnes Salon & Delamotte 1959-2007 (Jun 2016)

One of the surprises in this vertical, the 1997 Salon is super-polished, delicate and refined. The 1997 offers lovely detail and nuance throughout. Hints of candied lemon peel, white flowers and white pepper add an element of brightness that complements the wine’s natural richness. Although 1997 doesn’t belong to the group of elite vintages at…