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New Releases from Piedmont: The Stars Are Aligned (Oct 2011)

The 2008 Barbaresco Santo Stefano has the same color the 1987 had when it was 20 years old, which is to say almost rose colored. I don’t think the 2008 will make its 20th birthday, however. This is a light, translucent, fleeting wine with very little fruit and body.

Sonoma Preview: 2021 Edition (Jan 2021)

The 2019 Pinot Noir Day One is the standout among these 2019 Pinots from Senses. The aromatics alone are captivating. Rose petal, blood orange, mint, star anise and sweet red berry fruit literally soar out of the glass. The balance of fruit, aromatics and structure is beguiling. This is impressive.

The 2019 Napa Valley Cabernets: A Deep Dive (Jan 2022)

The 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon is a straightforward, easygoing effort. The Far Niente Cabernets typically show a bit more depth and creaminess, but the 2019 comes across a bit light and lacking in depth. Dark red plum, mocha, spice and new leather linger.

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Cherry-berry and menthol nose has a briary quality and seems somewhat pinched. Reasonably well delineated on the palate, but ungenerous and not showing the fat or ripeness of the vintage. Lacks distinction. Seems somewhat sour and green on the finish.

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1990 Duhart-Milon is a vintage I have not drunk for a long time. Served blind, it has a lovely nose of blackberry, singed leather, hung game and pencil shavings. The palate is fresh and well-balanced, disguising the warmth of the growing season with some style thanks to the perfectly judged acidity. Yes, a little…

Jekyll and Hyde: 2017 Brunello di Montalcino and 2016 Riservas (Dec 2021)

A captivating mix of ripe plums, strawberries, cloves, violet pastille, balsam herbs and white smoke emanates from the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino. This is undeniably elegant in feel, showing a weight unexpected from a young Poggio di Sotto, yet working in perfect harmony, with tart cherries and wild berries drenching the palate in primary concentration,…