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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Volnay Clos des Chênes 1er Cru, which was bottled earlier than the Champans, has an intense nose of black cherries, blueberry, seaweed and iodine. The palate continues that theme: saline on the entry, dense and grippy, and very nicely focused with a lively, lightly spiced finish. Real succulence here, and very good persistence;…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru has an alluring bouquet of mulberry, hoisin, sage and crushed stone, a subtle meaty element becoming noticeable with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly creamy opening. There is more lushness here compared to the Village Cru, and damson and white pepper emerge toward the finish….

Ornellaia: A Major Retrospective 1985-2006 (Dec 2009)

The 1998 Ornellaia (magnum) is the least impressive vintage in this flight. Hints of oxidation come through in notes of beef bouillon and mushroom, suggesting that either the wine has not developed particularly well in bottle or this is not a perfect example. Ideally, the 1998 is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. In 1998…

Three Vertical Tastings (Sep 2004)

(Saturated, bright ruby-red. Great nose offers a full range of aromas) cassis, raspberry, bitter chocolate, licorice, Asian spices. Dense, lush and sweet; a superripe Ornellaia that almost miraculously remains elegant. The raspberry and chocolate character follows through in the mouth. Finishes very fresh, with big, broad, chocolatey tannins and a late note of leather. Turned…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Vosne-Romanée Aux Reignots 1er Cru has a lot of reduction on the nose that occludes the fruit profile. The palate is full-bodied with grippy tannin, a muscular take on the vintage with blueberry and cranberry fruit, confit-like with spicy, peppery notes towards the grippy and firm finish. Just trying a bit too hard…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Bright red-ruby. Aromas of black raspberry and pungent minerality show a deep note of coffee reduction. Large-scaled, dry and classic, and quite backward and uncompromising today, with flavors of dark berries, smoke and crushed rock saturating the palate. Dusty tannins spread out horizontally on the vibrating, stony back end. Here’s another 2016 that will require…