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Umbria & Lazio: Italy’s Underdogs (Aug 2021)

A mix of mulled yellow apples, crushed hazelnuts, dusty dried flowers and wet stone creates a rich and inviting display as the 2019 Cervaro della Sala evolves in the glass. It’s soft and enveloping, casting opulent waves of textural ripe orchard fruits and subtle savory spices across the palate. Nuances of wild herbs come together…

2019 Tuscany Preview (Mar 2022)

The 2019 Tignanello is one of the most reserved, understated young wines I can remember tasting here. In so many vintages Tignanello is quite showy, but in 2019 the nervous energy and brightness of Sangiovese takes center stage. That’s intriguing, because the 2019 blend has a bit more Cabernet Sauvignon than normal, a decision made…

Chianti Classico & Neighbors: Looking at the 2020s and 2019s (Jul 2022)

The 2019 Tignanello is one of the most reserved, understated young wines I can remember tasting here. In so many vintages Tignanello is quite showy, but in 2019 the nervous energy and brightness of Sangiovese takes center stage. That’s intriguing, because the 2019 blend has a bit more Cabernet Sauvignon than normal, a decision made…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 2005 Yquem is limpid golden in hue. The bouquet is gorgeous, finely-tuned and precise with clear honey, vanilla pod and saffron, less of the almond that I have noticed previously. The palate is built around its exquisite poise, the acidity keeping this Yquem on its tip-toes. As I have noted before, it appears to…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Figeac is powerful and tightly wound. It does not possess the density or sheer sexiness of many Right Bank wines. Instead, the 2005 comes across as strict and severe. I am not sure the searing tannins will ever soften enough for the 2005 to be truly pleasurable. There is good brightness and plenty…

Cellar Journal – Bordeaux to Start… (Jul 2018)

The 2005 Figeac has been a variable performer over the years, one where you never quite know what to expect until you pull the corks. As usual, it has a sullen bouquet at first before offering broody black fruit laced with melted tar and tobacco, hints of liquorice almost reluctantly evolving with time. The palate…