Archives: Product Reviews

Silky and gracious on the palate, the 2009 Sorì San Lorenzo looks to be a wine that will drink well with just a few years of cellaring. This is a decidedly floral, lifted yet radiant wine with terrific balance and plenty of the sexiness that defines the very best wines of the year.

Good full red. Pungent aromas of maraschino cherry, minerals, smoke and camphor; the most Barolo-like of Gaja’s 2009s from the Barbaresco zone. The thickest and most concentrated too, sweet and mouthfilling but very backward. The combination of sheer stuffing and medicinal reserve along with fine-grained, dusty tannins and outstanding persistence suggests that this plump but…

Good deep red. Black raspberry, sour cherry, mocha and cedar on the nose. Sweet, dense and velvety, with a three-dimensional texture to the flavors of black fruits, licorice and violet. Projects an impression of medicinal reserve and power allied to great sweetness. Finishes with big but fine-grained and thoroughly ripe tannins and palate-staining black fruits.

Is Giacomo Conterno’s 2006 Barolo Cascina Francia a traditional or modern Barolo? Great question. Texturally, the 2006 boasts marvelous depth and a level of pure intensity not often seen in traditionally made wines, yet the aromatics, tannin and overall structure are all super classic. This is another austere, tannic Barolo best left alone.

A rush of intense blue and black stone fruits, tobacco, smoke, licorice, spices and new leather hits the palate in the 2010 Flaccianello. A wine of considerable immediacy and intensity, the 2010 captivates all the senses with its magnificent richness and pure texture. There is so much to like here.

The 2008 Barolo Cascina Francia possesses gorgeous inner perfume, layers of sublime fruit and fabulous overall balance. Plums, dark cherries and licorice are followed by darker notes of graphite and tar as the wine opens up in the glass. Today, the 2008 is much less expressive than it has been the many times I have…