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A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 d’Yquem is a vintage that I have awarded perfect scores to in the past however, neither bottles merit that on this occasion. The first bottle feels scalped, so much so that a second bottle is checked. This has a very refined and sophisticated bouquet with wild honey, brioche, vanilla pod and light orange…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

Winemaker Eric Kohler recalled the 1999 Lafite-Rothschild as being born in a sad summer. Personally, I have liked this First Growth since I first tasted it in barrel. Now 20 years old, it is beginning to show a little bricking on the rim. The bouquet is clean and detailed, with black currant, raspberry, melted tar…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Bright, deep ruby-red. Ripe, deep aromas of currant, flowers, coconut and mint. Firm and tight, with excellent cut and precision; brisk flavors of bitter cherry, berry skin and minerals. A slightly dry-edged midweight that’s best today on the long, slow-building finish. Shows an intriguing late note of faded rose.

1997 Vintage Ports (May 2000)

Deep, saturated ruby. Subtle, complex, lively aromas of blackberry, flowers, licorice, spices and mint. Rich, supple and concentrated, if not as supersweet or densely structured as some outstanding recent vintages of Graham. But this nicely balanced port boasts lovely mouthwatering vinosity and enough backbone for medium-term aging. Finishes spicy and very long, with strong black…

Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)

The 2015 Haut-Brion has a gorgeous bouquet of great amplitude, featuring lush but controlled red berry fruit laced with chestnut and hints of game, all generous and intoxicating yet not overblown. The palate is medium-bodied with quite an oaky, coconut-tinged entry. Surprisingly savory, almost animally in style, it feels warm and fleshy and also a…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

A huge, dramatic wine, the 2015 Haut-Brion is magnificent. Vertical in its construction and towering in its reach, the 2015 is going to need a good decade-plus to even start becoming approachable, as it needs to lose baby fat and develop the full range of its aromatics. Even at this early stage, though, it is…