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2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Bright, dark red. Slightly high-toned aromas of dark cherry, menthol, earth, leather and minerals; I might have guessed Nuits-Saint-Georges. Surprisingly supple and sweet in the mouth, offering considerable early appeal. Not especially complex but nicely full and satisfying. Finishes with substantial dusty tannins and lingering suggestions of leather and saline minerality. This wine was vinified…

Marquis d’Angerville’s Volnay Clos des Ducs: 1920-2017 (Oct 2019)

Medium red. Some green notes and a suggestion of old oak dominate the nose. Initially showed a touch of sweetness and decent texture along with a repeating herbal element but lost some of its fruit with air. Between its slightly spiky acidity and soft tannins, this wine should be drunk up. (13.3% alcohol; October 6…

2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Good medium red. Deep but closed nose hints at cherry, herbs and damp earth. Then large-scaled and explosive in the mouth, with a compellingly creamy quality to its red fruit and licorice flavors. Approachable now for its sheer sweetness and generous mouthfeel, this thick but shapely wine nonetheless needs time in the cellar to show…

Vinous Table: Burgundy Charity Auction and Dinner (Jul 2014)

In a vintage in which so many wines are all about intensity, 2009 Marquis d’Angerville’s Volnay Champans (magnum) impresses for its perfume, delineated fruit and fabulous overall balance. Refined and impeccable in its sense of restraint, the 2009 is so very pretty and expressive. Silky tannins round out the racy, polished finish. What a gorgeous…

Remember, Remember: 1945 Bordeaux (May 2020)

The 1945 d'Yquem is consistent with the two previous bottles that I tasted. I will not say anything other than that it is a perfect bottle of Sauternes. It still has that ethereal delineation on the nose of vivacious Seville orange marmalade and quince aromas, if maybe just a little more nuttiness compared to previous…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1979 Yquem came from a small cache of half-bottles I acquired for sixpence many moons ago. It is a pretty decent Sauternes for the vintage, featuring plenty of rich apricot and quince on the nose along with emerging hints of Barsac-like barley sugar. The palate has perhaps not aged quite as well, displaying sharp…