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2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 d'Armailhac is impeccable, just as it was from barrel. Sweet red cherry, blood orange, mint and cinnamon all run through the 2019, but it is brightness and energy I admire most. The purity of the fruit is compelling, as is the wine's balance. The 2019 was the last vintage made in the old…

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 d'Armailhac requires a few minutes to open up. It has an intense bouquet of blackberry and small black cherries, iodine and crushed violet, plus a faint hint of tobacco (less than last year). The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy black fruit, this 2019 having gained some backbone during its barrel maturation. Solid grip…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Cantemerle has always been a “plucky” Bordeaux that punches above its weight. This has a blackberry- and boysenberry-scented bouquet, arguably a little monotone compared to the best 1989s but undoubtedly youthful and quite glossy in style. The palate is medium-bodied and very smooth, with a mélange of red and black fruit, quite saturated…

In the Sweet Spot: 2001 Brunello di Montalcino (Mar 2021)

The 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova has a dark and brooding shade of deep garnet. It bursts from the glass with a mature, sweetly-scented bouquet of crushed plums and blueberries complemented by balsamic tones, smoke and worn leather. It takes a turn toward elegance on the palate with ripe, citrus-tinged wild berry fruits and…

2001 Brunello Vintage (Aug 2006)

The 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova is Neri’s more modern-styled Brunello. It is made from vines planted in the southern part of the zone and aged in small oak barrels. It displays a darker, almost saturated color and notable concentration with masses of sweet dark fruit, smoke and licorice flavors that flow onto the…

Domaine Georges Roumier Part 2: Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru (Nov 2022)

The 2001 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru comes across a little volatile on the nose. Whilst the palate feels quite ripe and candied in style, it does not cohere and feels flat on the finish. I do not believe this bottle is representative. Tasted blind at the Roumier Les Cras vertical at Medlar, London.