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Chablis 2023 & 2024: Five Baskets (Jul 2025)

The 2023 Chablis Les Séchets 1er Cru has a detailed and mineral-driven bouquet that evokes images of the dark and stormy sea. This has wonderful salinity—it really benefits from no wood contact. The palate is old-school Chablis, with green apple and pear scents. It’s a little strict, yet there is real depth and grip here….

Salon Cuvée S 1996-2013 at Vinous Icons

The 2013 Cuvée S is a young icon in the making. A delayed growing season with heat during the summer and a late harvest yielded a superb, wonderfully complex Salon, a Champagne that balances ripeness, acid and structure. Citrus, slate and floral overtones appear first, before hints of white pepper and chalk add layers of…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Château d’Armailhac is mature on the nose with singed leather, sous-bois, morels and perhaps a hint of a sweaty saddle. But I like it. The palate is medium-bodied with lighter tannins, meaty and savory, missing a bit of grip with a touch of Brettanomyces that becomes more dominant as it opens in the…

One Night in Taipei: Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg 1995-2017 (Jun 2025)

The 2007 Richebourg Grand Cru is a bit of a comedown after the '04. It looks more mature than '04 for a start. It begins well with an attractive nose, a mixture of red and black fruit, iris flower and a subtle estuarine scent. Modest delineation. The palate lets it down, light and meagre for…

Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

The 2008 Cristal is just fabulous. Chiseled and nuanced to the core, the 2008 possesses dazzling intensity from start to finish. Crushed rocks, lemon peel, graphite, mint, lime, chalk and white flowers all race across the palate. This is classic Cristal in a cool, late-ripening year.

Salon Cuvée S 1996-2013 at Vinous Icons

The 2013 Cuvée S is a young icon in the making. A delayed growing season with heat during the summer and a late harvest yielded a superb, wonderfully complex Salon, a Champagne that balances ripeness, acid and structure. Citrus, slate and floral overtones appear first, before hints of white pepper and chalk add layers of…