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2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Dark red. A sexy hint of woodsmoke complements sweet scents of cherry liqueur and purple berries. Tight-grained and fine, but with terrific inner-mouth lift to its dark berry, spice and violet flavors. Wonderfully juicy, lively wine with a light touch. Not a fleshy powerhouse, and not showing the obvious mineral structure today of the Ruchottes-Chambertin,…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has the most intense bouquet of the five wines from the same vineyard included within this flight, almost overwhelming the senses with precocious dark cherries, raspberry coulis, bergamot and hints of vanilla pod. The palate is medium-bodied, quite powerful and dense – a more masculine Bonnes-Mares that is almost Musigny-like…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(13.7% alcohol; 2.9 g/l acidity): Full medium-dark red. Sexy, inviting scents of raspberry, mocha, leather, spices and minerals, plus a whiff of dark chocolate. Dense, sweet and deep, conveying outstanding intensity to its plush flavors of blueberry, blackberry and mocha. Spreads out horizontally to saturate the palate on the very long, slowly mounting finish. This…

New Releases from Champagne (Dec 2010)

The 1999 Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne is beautiful. Understated at first, and also, surprisingly accessible, the 1999 Comtes de Champagne backs up its open, inviting personality with considerable muscle married to vibrant, pure fruit. The long, polished finish bursts with Chardonnay character. As is often the case, Comtes is at its best…

Dom Pérignon: A Rosé Retrospective: 1962-2004 (May 2015)

Another example of this era, the 1996 Dom Pérignon Rosé offers plenty of energy and tension, both signatures of the vintage. At the same time, though, the fruit never fills out, which tilts the balance to acidity and austerity. Frankly, I liked the 1996 more when it was younger. Today, the fruit has either begun…

Champagne Update (Nov 2006)

Bright, amber-tinged pink with pinpoint bubbles. Deep, smoky and complex, with a kaleidoscopic bouquet incorporating wild strawberry, peach, apricot, chestnut honey and cured meat. A firm, strikingly concentrated midweight with powerful flavors of orange peel, raspberry, redcurrant, baking spice and smoked meat and gentle supporting acidity. Smoky, sweet and long on the back, with a…