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Champagne: The Last Frontier (Dec 2009)

The 2000 Brut Grand Vintage opens with boisterous, toasty bouquet. Initially a touch diffuse, the wine finds its balance and focus in the glass, showing good length and a polished finish. This is a tasty, accessible Champagne best enjoyed on the young side. The blend is 50% Chardonnay, 34% Pinot Noir and 16% Pinot Meunier….

2007 Bordeaux : Don’t Hate Me Because I’m Overpriced (Jul 2010)

Good bright ruby-red. Rather backward nose hints at cassis, black cherry, shoe polish, graphite, minerals and spices. Sweet, broad and rich, but with enticing fresh minerality giving energy to the rather full-bodied middle palate. The wine’s cassis fruit is complicated by an almost decadent floral element. Finishes perfumed and very long, with wonderfully lush, supple,…

Champagne for Everyone (Nov 2000)

Pale peach skin color. Aromas of ginger apple, caramel, cinnamon and crystallized ginger. Full, round and concentrated; thick and strong in extract. Rather full dosage nicely leavened by firm acidity. Finishes tactile and long, with a note of honeyed apple. I began with a 90-point score for this wine but marked it down as it…

1970s Night at Babbo, New York (Jun 2009)

Perrier-Jouët’s 1976 Belle Epoque, from magnum, was one of the more advanced 1976 Champagnes of the night, but it was also remarkably complete and harmonious.

2004 and 2003 Chablis (Jul 2005)

Pale yellow. Pure aromas of lemon, spices and stone. Supple, round and silky, with very ripe but bright flavors of apple, pear and citrus fruits. Impressively fat, rich and seamless premier cru with excellent length. This was bottled the day before I tasted it but was not yet showing any evidence of shock.

2001 and 2000 Red Burgundies (Mar 2003)

Medium red. Raspberry, currant, plum, chocolate and espresso on the nose, with a leesy complexity. Sweet and fleshy but fresh, with good underlying mineral spine. Builds slowly on the back. A suave, subtle wine that should develop nicely in bottle.