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Focus on Champagne (Nov 1998)

Pale color. Youthful aromas of lemon, quince, pear, toast, spice, chalk and red berries. Big, sweet and seamless, if a bit clenched in the early going. A powerful, very young wine whose fruit builds slowly in the mouth and explodes on the finish. A charry note contributes to its complexity. Possesses amazing depth of fruit,…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Château Margaux is a vintage that I have not tasted for a decade. Now at 20 years old it has retained a deep garnet colour with very little ageing on the rim, in fact, one of the most youthful-looking 1998 Left Banks that I encountered. The nose is gorgeous: very well defined with…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Medium ruby. Cool, floral aromas of red berries, violet, cocoa powder, graphite and spicy oak, along with a whiff of smoked meat. Juicy, sharply delineated and austere; a classic, adamantly dry claret with superb intensity and grip. This is beginning to close up, unlike the ’99. But really expands on the very long, perfumed finish….

Vinous Table: Zoldering, Amsterdam, Netherlands (Feb 2024)

The 1998 Château Margaux showed better than my previous bottle five or six years ago. Dark berry fruit mixed with pressed iris flower on the nose, a dab of potpourri and exotic flirtations with fig, this opens wonderfully in the glass. The palate is now mature with a crisp line of acidity, vibrant though not…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Marsannay Rouge has a glorious and vivacious bouquet with red cherries, blueberry and subtle violet aromas that are beautifully defined. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin. There is a fine bead of acidity here, fresh and focused with perfect salinity, a judicious pinch of cracked black pepper enhancing the finish. This comes…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Marsannay Rouge has a glorious and vivacious bouquet with red cherries, blueberry and subtle violet aromas that are beautifully defined. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin. There is a fine bead of acidity here, fresh and focused with perfect salinity, a judicious pinch of cracked black pepper enhancing the finish. This comes…