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Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Doisy-Védrines has a more petrol/resinous nose than its peers and, again, a little Germanic in style, but it lacks the panache of the Clos Haut-Peyraguey. The palate is balanced with a viscous entry and smooth with apricot and wild peach. Yet, I am seeking more mineralité and intensity on the finish that comes…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Suduiraut has an attractive bouquet with notes of Mirabelle, jasmine and saffron infusing the upfront honeyed fruit. This is no shy retiring wallflower. The palate is well balanced with a viscous opening, lightly spiced with a pleasant bitter note that lends tension on the finish. Good length, this is a very fine 2010…

Bordeaux 2010: The Sweet Wines (Aug 2011)

Bright, pale yellow-gold. Captivating aromas of tropical fruits, vanilla and creme br u lee are complicated by honeyed botrytis. Enters the mouth smooth, balanced and fresh, showing building sweetness and complexity to its pure, rich mango, papaya, ginger and citrus flavors. This large-scaled Sauternes admirably combines power and grace, finishing pure and long. Jean-Rene Martignon,…

Antinori Solaia From Magnum: 1978-2016 (Sep 2020)

The 2013 Solaia from magnum is a special wine. I spent a month in Tuscany that year, so my memories of the growing season are many. In the glass, the 2013 is exquisitely perfumed, vibrant and wonderfully nuanced. I wouldn’t plan on opening bottles anytime soon, but it’s great to see that the 2013 is…

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 1999 Lynch-Bages has a deep core with modest aging on the rim. The nose is austere, a little introspective, as undergrowth mixes with black truffle and morels showing fine definition. There is definitely some greenness here. The palate is medium-bodied with light tannins that frame the tart red fruit laced with tobacco and smoke….

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Dark red-ruby. Plum, redcurrant, cedar, cigar box and tobacco on the evolving nose. Pliant and sweet, with moderate depth and dimension. Can’t match the later vintages for verve or inner-mouth complexity. Finishes with dusty tannins and good length.