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2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Good medium ruby. Aristocratic, highly complex nose hints at plum, roast coffee, leather, grilled nuts, tobacco and earth. A bit reticent today but already offers an uncanny amalgamation of density and vinosity. A very suave, subtle wine that finishes with creamy, sweet tannins and terrific grip and length. Was there a more consistently outstanding first…

A Century – Not Out: Talbot 1919-2010 (Oct 2019)

The 1989 Talbot has fine attack on the nose: red cherries, bergamot tea and pressed rose petals developing from the glass, maybe they just miss the cohesion and sophistication of the 1986. The palate is medium-bodied with rather harsh, edgy tannin. Notes of black tea and tobacco infused the red fruit with a grainy -textured…

Cellar Favorite: 2003 Cos d’Estournel (Dec 2015)

The 2003 Cos d’Estournel is a total knock out. Super-ripe and opulent from the outset, the 2003 is a big, ample Cos that takes over all the senses and never lets up. The bouquet alone – with its alluring notes of tobacco, cedar, spice, dark roasted fruits, leather and smoke – is stunning in its…

Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 2003 Cos d’Estournel revels in a vintage that shone in Saint-Estèphe. In some ways it is a prototype of the 2009 however, the 2003 feels more natural, more a product of the growing season than a premeditated crowd-pleaser like the 2009. It has that almost gregarious bouquet with plush raspberry ripple, vanilla pod, crème…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Saturated medium ruby. Expressive aromas of dark fruits, minerals, licorice, tobacco leaf, dark chocolate and sexy oak. Lush, full and rich; packed with flavor. Wonderfully silky, deep, chocolatey wine, but also lively and not at all heavy. Finishes very long, with suave tannins covered by fruit. Not especially oaky today, nor is the wine’s 13.5%…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Cos d’Estournel was showing wonderfully when I last tasted it at the vertical in 2018, yet five years on, I wonder whether that point in time represented its apex? Here, it has a concentrated bouquet with mulberry, stewed plums, touches of licorice and leather, slowly moving into its secondary stage. The palate is…