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2022 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer: Old Vines and Steep Challenges (Oct 2023)

The 2022 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese opens with a notion of baked peach, especially baked peach skin, aromatic, slightly caramelized with concentrated fruit. Peach compote sweeps onto the palate, ripe and still with bite, just as cooked peach flesh appears, expressive and sweet but not overdone. This entire flight is a lesson in restraint. The…

2022 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer: Old Vines and Steep Challenges (Oct 2023)

The 2022 Riesling Graacher Himmelreich Spätlese is rather closed. Distant fruit appears as though behind glass where you can see but not touch. The palate is a juicy, rounded but tingling picture of tangerine. Aromatic, deliciously tart but wonderfully ripe, with that scented, balancing, zesty tang of tangerine peel. The 2022 shows poised balance, sweetness,…

Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Glass-staining ruby. A highly complex, expansive bouquet evokes fresh dark berries, olive paste, potpourri and incense, along with exotic spice and smoky mineral notes that build steadily with air. Sweet, focused and penetrating on the palate, offering intense, spice-accented cassis, boysenberry, cherry preserve, smoky bacon, olive and violet pastille flavors that are braced by a…

Changing Gears in Barossa (Jun 2023)

This 2021 The Steading, a Grenache blend made with fruit from vines averaging 70 years of age, is very attractive and well-made with energetic aromas of black cherry, spice, new leather and dried herbs. The 2021 is well composed, with an initial impact of primary dark cherry and spice before more meaty and earthy tones…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Siran, picked from September 20 until October 18, is raised in around 33% new oak (as usual). It has an intense, focused nose of vibrant black fruit, more floral than its peers, with violet and incense aromas. The palate is framed by pliant tannins and crisp acidity, and delivers gentle grip and signs…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Siran is impressive, to say the least. Inky, dark and seductive, the 2018 is gorgeous right out of the bottle. Blue/purplish fruit, mocha, spice, chocolate and new French oak all race across the palate. The high percentage of Merlot is felt in the wine's juiciness and palate-weight, while a kick of brightness energizes…