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2005 and 2004 Chablis (Nov 2006)

Slightly reduced but complex nose hints at citrus peel, white fruits, minerals, iodine and lichee. Juicy and very intense, with terrific thrust to the white peach and mineral flavors. This is quite expansive despite the fact that it was bottled just a week prior to my visit. Finishes bracing and very long, with superb delicacy….

2008 and 2007 White Burgundies (Sep 2009)

Good lemony lift to the aromas of minerals and vanillin oak. Dense, rich and sweet, with a classic creamy texture leavened by a sappy quality that extends the wine’s finish. The longest of these 2007s to this point.

1997 Vintage Ports (May 2000)

Deep, saturated ruby. Subtle, complex, lively aromas of blackberry, flowers, licorice, spices and mint. Rich, supple and concentrated, if not as supersweet or densely structured as some outstanding recent vintages of Graham. But this nicely balanced port boasts lovely mouthwatering vinosity and enough backbone for medium-term aging. Finishes spicy and very long, with strong black…

Champagne: The Season’s New Releases (Dec 2016)

Krug’s just-released 1990 Collection is magnificent. Remarkably fresh for a 26 year-old wine, the 1990 Collection captures the Krug house style at its very best. Floral notes meld into hints of apricot, chamomile, orchard fruit, vanillin and sweet spices. On the palate, the 1990 is creamy, vivid and super-expressive, but what is most intriguing is…

Staring Into The Heart of Sangiovese (Jun 2012)

The 2004 Flaccianello della Pieve is super elegant, polished and impeccably refined, just as it always has been. At the same time, it is one of the bigger 2004s from Tuscany readers will come across. Dark red berries, flowers, spices and menthol are layered into the finish. Today the aromatics aren’t full developed, but that…

Chianti Classico: More Than Meets The Eye (Sep 2020)

Querciabella’s 2017 Chianti Classico Riserva is fabulous. Sweet perfumed aromatics open up first as this silky, mid-weight Riserva shows off its allure. The warm, dry vintage notwithstanding, Querciabella turned out a gracious, mid-weight Riserva that is incredibly elegant. The 2017 changes constantly in the glass, revealing different sides of its personality over time. It’s the…