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Champagne Update (Nov 2006)

Light yellow. Rich and powerful, with leesy pear and white truffle aromas accented by gentle notes of white pepper and cinnamon. Extremely powerful Krug, with rich orchard fruit flavors, a velvety texture and warm, rich, inviting notes of brioche and creme brulee Finishes with intense pear and peach flavors and lingering notes of smoke, iodine…

Champagne’s Golden Age (Nov 2015)

A pretty, delicate wine, the 2005 Brut Rosé La Grande Année is also a bit more intriguing than the Grande Année, as it has more mid-palate pliancy and greater overall depth. Crushed flowers, sweet red berries, cinnamon and rose petal notes inform the effortless, gracious finish. Disgorged: May 2015.

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2003)

Light orange color. Strawberry, earth and walnut aromas, along with a hint of Burgundian underbrush. Big but bright; spicy and very dry. Toothcoating, slightly drying finish calls out for food. A distinctly idiosyncratic rose; serious wine more than Champagne. I must point out that two subsequent bottles of this wine were dry-edged and tired. Also…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Cos d’Estournel is exactly as I predict on the nose, almost overwhelming with over-ripe black plum, raisin, fig and black olive, smudged and lacking the precision and tension of the 2009 Montrose. The palate is sweet and cloying on the entry, hedonistic and voluminous, yet unequivocally bereft of tension and sense of terroir…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Saturated dark ruby. Exotic, port-like aromas of blackberry liqueur, mocha and grilled meat. Fat, lush, saline and sweet, conveying an impression of extreme port-like ripeness. Huge, mouth-saturating flavors of dark berries and chocolate. Not heavy but doesn’t exactly dance on the palate. Does this need years to shed some of its baby fat or will…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 65% cabernet sauvignon, 33% merlot, and 2% cabernet franc; 80% new oak; 33 hectoliters per hectare; 14.5% alcohol; IPT 99; 56% selection for the grand vin Inky purple. Extremely ripe aromas of red fruits macerated in alcohol, espresso and dark chocolate (almost Banyuls- or port-like), with a more refreshing floral element emerging…