Archives: Product Reviews

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Vintage Champagne (Nov 2013)

(made from 55% pinot noir and 45% chardonnay; 20% of the wine was aged in oak; no malo, as usual): Light, bright gold. Heady mineral- and smoke-accented citrus and orchard fruit aromas, with notes of fig, toasted nuts and sweet butter adding complexity and depth. Powerful, palate-staining poached pear and orange flavors are given spine…

Champagne: New Releases and Collectibles (May 2014)

Broad, ample and resonant on the palate, the 2006 Cristal dazzles with its pure richness and volume. Readers need to give the 2006 another 4-5 years in bottle, perhaps longer, as the wine appears to be shutting down a bit. Tasted next to the 2002, today the 2006 is a bit less opulent but just…

Vinous Table: Le Bistro de L’Hôtel de Beaune, Beaune, France (Apr 2019)

The bouquet is drop-dead gorgeous, lively and broad, and beautifully defined as always, offering scents of citrus fruit, toasted walnuts and a hint of brioche. The exquisitely balanced palate displays spine-tingling mineralité and real tension and grace. The long, quite deep finish makes me wonder whether this 2006 will meliorate with further bottle age. Should…

Vintage Champagne (Nov 2013)

(made from 55% pinot noir and 45% chardonnay; 20% of the wine was aged in oak; no malo, as usual): Light, bright gold. Heady mineral- and smoke-accented citrus and orchard fruit aromas, with notes of fig, toasted nuts and sweet butter adding complexity and depth. Powerful, palate-staining poached pear and orange flavors are given spine…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good medium ruby. Explosive nose of black raspberry, coffee and leather. Hugely rich, dense and sweet, with deep flavors of currant, plum and chocolate complicated by underlying minerality. Wonderfully dense and full on the back end, with broad tannins and palate-staining length. Today, the 2005 comes off as dry by comparison. A standout of the…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Red-ruby. Cool aromas of currant, mocha, graphite, tobacco and herbs; I don’t find this wine’s typical Vosne-like black fruit and floral character today. Supple and moderately broad but could use a bit more definition and eclat A moderately ripe Rol Valentin, finishing with dusty tannins and a lightly peppery quality.